My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff Options

[Chris H.]

Finally starting the thread. First, I never would have done this if it weren't for several of you helping me out, especially Ian at:

Cold Water Conversions

Ian tolerated dozens of questions from me as I decided which way to go. Thanks again!

Here is the candidate (or victim, depending on what side of the fence you are on):



A 1975 1.8L with California Emissions...I've had it for almost 11 years. During that time I have logged about 2800 miles on it. I decided to swap it out for a modern drive train so my daughter could drive it so I started looking for a 2.2L Subie and a 2WD auto trans. This setup CAN be made to work with a custom hanger, but it's not a very exciting trans. Think early '90's Camry or Corolla acceleration. I'm sure it could be re-geared but an Audi trans would probably be a much better option.

Then I found and SVX for cheap and changed directions entirely. Looks like my kid will be learning to drive a 5 speed Subie!

So far I have:



Strong running SVX engine



2006 WRX trans purchased from NASIOC



1990-1992 Honda Accord shifter Update - you cannot use this one unless you design something to reverse the shifter mechanism operation. Since it is designed for the trans in front of the car the mechanism moves in the opposite direction (mirror image) of what is needed. I ended up using an MR2 shifter.

If you don't feel like chasing this stuff down Ian will source it for you.

Next up I'll post the highlights of the SVX strip-down and note some of the pitfalls, valuable parts, and stuff to be careful not to break!

Any feedback, comments, questions, concerns are welcome. I want to do it right.

[Chris H.]

Never done a timing belt before so I wasted a lot of time re-doing it because I thought it was incorrect. Lined up the marks perfectly…cranked the engine one revolution…and the dang belt marks never realigned with the marks on the engine. Apparently they don't have to. The marks are for the initial alignment, so as long as the arrows on the engine line up with the ones on the belt wheels it’s all good. Hope that saves someone a couple hours. And if you screw it up, no worries. The EG33 is a non-interference engine. Didn’t expect that but it’s true. The car won’t run, but you won’t bang the valves against the piston tops.

Left side:



Center:



Right Side:



Note how after one revolution the arrows on the wheel line up with the ones on the engine but the timing belt marks do not.