My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff Options

[Chris H.]

Finally starting the thread. First, I never would have done this if it weren't for several of you helping me out, especially Ian at:

Cold Water Conversions

Ian tolerated dozens of questions from me as I decided which way to go. Thanks again!

Here is the candidate (or victim, depending on what side of the fence you are on):



A 1975 1.8L with California Emissions...I've had it for almost 11 years. During that time I have logged about 2800 miles on it. I decided to swap it out for a modern drive train so my daughter could drive it so I started looking for a 2.2L Subie and a 2WD auto trans. This setup CAN be made to work with a custom hanger, but it's not a very exciting trans. Think early '90's Camry or Corolla acceleration. I'm sure it could be re-geared but an Audi trans would probably be a much better option.

Then I found and SVX for cheap and changed directions entirely. Looks like my kid will be learning to drive a 5 speed Subie!

So far I have:



Strong running SVX engine



2006 WRX trans purchased from NASIOC



1990-1992 Honda Accord shifter Update - you cannot use this one unless you design something to reverse the shifter mechanism operation. Since it is designed for the trans in front of the car the mechanism moves in the opposite direction (mirror image) of what is needed. I ended up using an MR2 shifter.

If you don't feel like chasing this stuff down Ian will source it for you.

Next up I'll post the highlights of the SVX strip-down and note some of the pitfalls, valuable parts, and stuff to be careful not to break!

Any feedback, comments, questions, concerns are welcome. I want to do it right.

[Chris H.]

Don’t have any pics of this, but I did try flipping the intake…I’m not confident enough in my skills to do it this time. Too many variables if it doesn’t start once I get it done. When I flipped both the FI runner section and the top section there was interference with the AC unit. Found a company called Outlaw Engineering who will do a ¼” phenolic spacer for the SVX, but even with that it would still interfere. When I flipped just the top piece the fuel lines underneath didn’t cooperate. It can be done though, maybe version 2.0.

So on to the trans…mine is 2006 WRX unit, so it is a “turbo” trans (2.5T). Bought Ian’s kit to lock the diff and change to the older stub axle style. Ian is assembling a very concise set of photos to explain the process so I won’t outline all the steps since his will be better.

First, the when you take off the center diff, which is the tail section of the trans it’s not immediately obvious what to do next.

Just pull out this stuff:



The center diff is worth between $150 and $300 depending on the year and how many people need it at the time you want to sell it.

Here's the diff lock installed:



To get the nut off for the diff lock you need to take the next section of trans cover off. You'll probably need a new gasket or some gasket maker. Mine tore into several pieces. It's made of a paper-ish material.

New stubs in...ready to go.



Tail end...the stock bolts are way too long for the cover. Shorter ones are provided in the kit.



Some "gotchas":

1. If you are installing stub axles be very careful with the axle seals. I bent one by slightly tapping it with a wrench. They should sit flush with the axle holes. I also pushed one in a bit too far but was able to get it out.

This is "way too far" in:



Not quite German quality engineering we're dealing with so things don't all fit with a crisp snap like we are used to.

2. When you remove the middle section of the trans cover to get at the differential nut the gear selector shaft will just fall out onto the floor which is alarming. Don't worry, you did not break it.