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ww914 |
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#1
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914 Convert ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 435 Joined: 29-September 11 From: Central Coast, CA Member No.: 13,621 Region Association: Central California ![]() |
I am trying to decide on whether to upgrade the torsion bars, say 22 or 23 or go with coil overs in the front with not sure what rate springs. Any comments on either?
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ChrisFoley |
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#2
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I am Tangerine Racing ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,937 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
I would suggest the amount of effort & expense on suspension mods should be consistent with the amount of money you're willing to spend on tires.
If you don't buy Hoosiers or other top level tires to be competetive then there's no point in front coilovers. Take care of the inexpensive things, especially time behind the wheel, first. |
ww914 |
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#3
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914 Convert ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 435 Joined: 29-September 11 From: Central Coast, CA Member No.: 13,621 Region Association: Central California ![]() |
I would suggest the amount of effort & expense on suspension mods should be consistent with the amount of money you're willing to spend on tires. If you don't buy Hoosiers or other top level tires to be competetive then there's no point in front coilovers. Take care of the inexpensive things, especially time behind the wheel, first. Chris, the reason I want to tweak the suspension, is because I am running Hoosiers. You are, however, absolutely correct about the seat time. The thing is, I can't do quality seat time while I am waiting for the next event. So then, with that said, the price of front coilovers is about the same as a 21mm torsion bar. In your opinion, which way should I go. I thought with the coil overs, I would have more adjustments or is there a way to adjust the torsion bars, other than the obvious adjuster nuts? |
ChrisFoley |
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#4
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I am Tangerine Racing ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,937 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Chris, the reason I want to tweak the suspension, is because I am running Hoosiers. You are, however, absolutely correct about the seat time. The thing is, I can't do quality seat time while I am waiting for the next event. D'oh, thats in your other thread title isn't it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) QUOTE So then, with that said, the price of front coilovers is about the same as a 21mm torsion bar. In your opinion, which way should I go. I thought with the coil overs, I would have more adjustments or is there a way to adjust the torsion bars, other than the obvious adjuster nuts? Price of components doesn't tell the whole story though. The torsion bars will install and adjust to baseline quickly. The coilovers are a bit of a project. They also might compromise your wheel/tire setup and require added spacers since they effectively increase the strut diameter. The only way to gain camber adjustability is to install camber boxes or offset ball joints or 935 a-arms. At least with the torsion bars you can get more negative camber by simply opening up the holes in the strut tower until the strut hits the inside of the wheel well. As Brant said, the coilover setup only improves adjustability of spring rate. Another thing, major changes on the car between events when you're still gaining experience will put you back to square one as far as how to drive the car. I've found it better to adjust driving style to suit the car until you know exactly what will make the car quicker/easier to drive. Then make big changes and get used to them before another round of changes. IMO, 914s generally suffer from lack of rear grip and stiffening the sh!t out of the front is the only way to balance the handling. That's why you end up lifting a front tire in hard cornering. Its better to do everything possible to improve the rear suspension/grip before tackling the front end. |
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