Relief, Oiling system in a type 4 |
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Relief, Oiling system in a type 4 |
worn |
May 13 2013, 08:33 AM
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#1
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,342 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
If anyone has read my previous threads my two week vacation turned from driving to lying on the creeper under the new engine and transmission. Low oil pressure after warm up. I ordered a new Melling 30 mm pump and we shall see, but at the same time I looked into the pressure relief system - especially where it shunts oil away from the cooler because it is easier to see in the car.
What I found surprised me. First, looking at two different cases (72 1.7 and 76 2.0) I found that the piston seats on a shoulder in the bore that is at most a mm wide, and is not at all uniform in width across the piston face. OK, maybe it isn't supposed to seal. Second I found that by the time you have opened the valve to shunt past the cooler, you are also dumping into the sump. That is there is a small overlap between the outlet to the oil gallery and the grooves cut in the bore leading to the sump exit. Finally, the piston is simply loose in the bore. I can understand a fear of seizing, but there is no way that with my system oil isn't streaming into the sump, and it will stream faster as it thins - much faster. I also spent a long time cruising the Samba - they ought to know whats up. What I found is a recurrent theme of new engines built in a variety of ways making low oil pressure. Many people were happy with what I ended up with - 10 psi at idle. On a new engine. It is steel against untreated aluminum, so wear would be expected, but mine do not look worn - just poorly made. Maybe they are worn and I cannot tell. I got a face full of oil on one attempt at examination, so I may have missed things. It seems an ideal situation for machining or sleeving during the rebuild, and I actually found a manufacturer of a sleeving kit with a ball bearing valve. Thoughts ladies and gentlemen? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) |
r_towle |
May 14 2013, 02:33 PM
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#2
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,645 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Check the case main bearing seat size.
Check the main bearing thickness. Check the main bearings in the case all torqued down, no crank. I recall Jake mentioning that the main bearings halves were slightly large and needed to be hand files down on the top edges to allow the case to close all the way. Rod bearings may also be having the same issue, not sure. Pretty sure Jake measures everything with bearings and not with bearings to verify the bearings are right. With his higer volume of motors, he sure has seen all the wierd product issues coming onto the market. Just because the bearings are new does not mean they are right. Rich |
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