My 3.3L Subie Conversion Thread, Got me some 914rubber stuff Options

[Chris H.]

Finally starting the thread. First, I never would have done this if it weren't for several of you helping me out, especially Ian at:

Cold Water Conversions

Ian tolerated dozens of questions from me as I decided which way to go. Thanks again!

Here is the candidate (or victim, depending on what side of the fence you are on):



A 1975 1.8L with California Emissions...I've had it for almost 11 years. During that time I have logged about 2800 miles on it. I decided to swap it out for a modern drive train so my daughter could drive it so I started looking for a 2.2L Subie and a 2WD auto trans. This setup CAN be made to work with a custom hanger, but it's not a very exciting trans. Think early '90's Camry or Corolla acceleration. I'm sure it could be re-geared but an Audi trans would probably be a much better option.

Then I found and SVX for cheap and changed directions entirely. Looks like my kid will be learning to drive a 5 speed Subie!

So far I have:



Strong running SVX engine



2006 WRX trans purchased from NASIOC



1990-1992 Honda Accord shifter Update - you cannot use this one unless you design something to reverse the shifter mechanism operation. Since it is designed for the trans in front of the car the mechanism moves in the opposite direction (mirror image) of what is needed. I ended up using an MR2 shifter.

If you don't feel like chasing this stuff down Ian will source it for you.

Next up I'll post the highlights of the SVX strip-down and note some of the pitfalls, valuable parts, and stuff to be careful not to break!

Any feedback, comments, questions, concerns are welcome. I want to do it right.

[Chris H.]

Couple of notes....

1. Be very careful to choose the right clutch kit. For example, my trans is a 2006 WRX, which supported a 2,5T. Although many sites and ebay sellers will say that the cheaper KSB03 or KSB04 clutch kit works, they DO NOT. The one you need is the FJK1001. It's $100 more but if you use the cheaper one it won't engage properly and will chew up the clutch disc...search NASIOC for cross-reference for the clutch that works with your trans.



2. Apparently Subaru changed the oil separator that is under the flywheel from metal to plastic in the '90's...and it wasn't a good idea. Then they went to aluminum...still bad. Now the replacement is steel. If your engine has one made of plastic or aluminum change it. Both leak like crazy.

Good thing I poked a hole in mine trying to lock the flywheel! YEAH! Meant to do that!



Here's the old one and new one...universal and fits several models. The new part # is 11831AA210