what's the proper undercoating for a 914-6? Options

[siverson]

I tried extending a thread on the originality forum, but not much luck there:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=152778

Anyone have photos of an original or 100% properly restored 914-6 showing the rear fender wells and bottom side of the rear trunk? It seems like black undercoating is never right as it was just applied by the dealers or ports (or something), and besides it's ugly.

So, it seems like the good options for these areas appears to be:

1. metal -> primer -> body color paint

2. metal -> primer -> grey PVC undercoating

3. metal -> primer -> grey PVC undercoating -> body color paint

Or ?

-Steve

[McMark]

I have that gun as well. Sprayed SKS Stoneguard with it on a 911T. I was really happy with the results on that. Which actually lend credence to my theory that the seam sealer I'm trying to spray is just too thick/sticky to pebble correctly.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net-419-1380332255.1.jpg)

[Jeff Hail]

I have that gun as well. Sprayed SKS Stoneguard with it on a 911T. I was really happy with the results on that. Which actually lend credence to my theory that the seam sealer I'm trying to spray is just too thick/sticky to pebble correctly.

Trying to get that "magic" compromise that looks oem is a challenge. Agree the sprayable seam sealer is very thick. To get it to pebble you have to play with the air pressure and material volume adjustment... to the point where it actually spits and is just short of atomizing. One tip is soaking the tubes in hot water before you apply to thin them out. I agree it still wont pebble the way we want to it. The amount of material required if going the sprayable sealer route is in cases of tubes.

The pic is sprayable sealer only with epoxy over it. It was done using very low pressure (spitting). 1 tube to do just an outer long gets pricy. I'm not going for originality on mine so the area applied is for preservation not accuracy.



Another tip is to use a final coat of SKS over the sprayable sealer. You will get a pebble/ orange peel appearance much closer to the factory coating. I don't have a pic but it works and looks very accurate.


Another thing to consider: If you paint over the coatings the appearance will lean to the side of thick orange peel texture after the base is applied (wet on texture)