Adjustable Temp Electric Fans, Need help finding a sensor--page 2 Options

[computers4kids]

Currently I have dual electric fans, each on their own relay, that both come on around 180 degrees. I would like to reduce the fan noise from both fans coming on at once since my system stays cool easily and both fans tend to be overkill. I was thinking about having one fan come on around 180 degrees and the other come on if the temperature raises 10 degrees or so above. Fans 1 and 2 would also shut themselves off once each one dips 10 degrees below their set temps.

I see Jegs sells a kit that appears to do just this for around $150 that would control both fans. http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/16789/10002/-1
Another possibility, would be to let Fan 1 continue to come on at 180 using the temp sender Renegade supplied, disconnecting the Fan 2. Jegs also sells the same adjustable unit for a single fan for $83. I would connect Fan 2 using the single controller for half the price. http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/16779/10002/-1

What are your thoughts?

[mikesmith]

I recently installed a Painless F5 controller for the Renegade setup for basically the same reason; when those fans come on, you feel like you're driving a hovercraft (plus, the lights dim something fearsome).

Apart from having to make an adapter for the sensor in the radiator it went smoothly and the result is a big improvement, although even at 50% the fans are still fairly noisy.

The PWM isn't entirely smooth, so now at a stoplight at night with the fans running the headlights flicker a little, but overall temperatures haven't been cycling up and down like they used to - it gets to around 180 and then just stays there.

[76-914]

I recently installed a Painless F5 controller for the Renegade setup for basically the same reason; when those fans come on, you feel like you're driving a hovercraft (plus, the lights dim something fearsome).

Apart from having to make an adapter for the sensor in the radiator it went smoothly and the result is a big improvement, although even at 50% the fans are still fairly noisy.

The PWM isn't entirely smooth, so now at a stoplight at night with the fans running the headlights flicker a little, but overall temperatures haven't been cycling up and down like they used to - it gets to around 180 and then just stays there.

Tom clued me in before I went too far. He had me run an 8 and a 10 ga. from batt to my power block in the front hood just to avoid that exact problem. Thx again Tom

[mikesmith]

The PWM isn't entirely smooth, so now at a stoplight at night with the fans running the headlights flicker a little, but overall temperatures haven't been cycling up and down like they used to - it gets to around 180 and then just stays there.

Tom clued me in before I went too far. He had me run an 8 and a 10 ga. from batt to my power block in the front hood just to avoid that exact problem. Thx again Tom

Even with a direct run from the battery, the lights will dim a little when the Renegade fan set kicks in; the cold draw from the two fans is around 30A. The F5 could be smarter, but the alternatives all seem worse.

[76-914]

The PWM isn't entirely smooth, so now at a stoplight at night with the fans running the headlights flicker a little, but overall temperatures haven't been cycling up and down like they used to - it gets to around 180 and then just stays there.

Tom clued me in before I went too far. He had me run an 8 and a 10 ga. from batt to my power block in the front hood just to avoid that exact problem. Thx again Tom

Even with a direct run from the battery, the lights will dim a little when the Renegade fan set kicks in; the cold draw from the two fans is around 30A. The F5 could be smarter, but the alternatives all seem worse.

With both fans on high I get a .03v drop across the 8 ga. I haven't checked the drop off the 10ga yet. I'm hoping I don't notice any dimming once it's on the road. Is the Renegade set up a power hog?