Starter relay or no starter relay, Been reading up for an hour and still don't know!! Options

[David Stowers]

On two occasions recently on pulling onto my driveway after a long journey my car won't restart after turning off to unlock the garage door. Luckily I can then just push the car in but with a European tour booked in the summer I'd like to sort the problem.
When I get back in after opening the garage the lights on the dash dim when I turn the key to start but there is no click. 20 minutes later it will start right up. Is this the problem that will be solved by a hot start relay kit or just a good old fashioned sticky solenoid? I'd rather do just the relay or just replace the solenoid so which is it?
Thanks guys

[Tom]

Well, I looked thru my limited left over parts and the only diode I had left was a !N4003, 200volt 1 Amp. Hooked up a test for it and noticed no suppression of the arc. Did some research and found out something. The diode used to suppress the inductive spike needs to be 10 times the working voltage of the circuit and at least the same current capacity of the circuit. So I need at least a 120 volt 30 or so amp diode to be effective. I will keep looking and if I find something reasonable close, I will get it and test it and let every one know the results.
McMark,
Are you referring to the condenser for the ignition? Those seem to be doing the job fine. A capacitor just won't work to suppress the inductive spike for an inductor.
Mark Henry,
It's progress. If something new will work better than a solution that has been around for decades, why not use it?
Anything solid state will out last a mechanical device just because of the mechanical wear over time of the mechanical device. Look at how much better solid state ignitions are than points/condenser! I am just trying to improve the reliability of the starter circuit, not condemn the use of a Ford relay.
Tom