LED Brake/Taillight Group Buy |
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LED Brake/Taillight Group Buy |
Spoke |
Apr 2 2014, 11:31 PM
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#1
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 7,052 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
This is a group buy of what I have referred to as the 5mm LED rev 2 Brake/Taillight PCB.
These are hand assembled one by one, tested, and will be delivered as they are produced. I have made a list of folks who have shown interest in purchase from my other thread. That list is in the next post. No need to re-request purchase if you are on the list. I will PM each member in turn. I will not request payment until your PCBs are to be assembled. The list is in chronological order and purchase requests will be handled in order. Please be patient. If you requested boards in that thread but are not on the list, please PM me and your name will be inserted appropriately. If you haven't previously requested a purchase and are not on the list in the next post please respond to this thread. Many folks are familiar with work done to develop LED brake and turnsignal lights from the LED developmental thread. See the last few pages for current info as I've tried several different configurations before arriving at the 5mm rev 2 PCBs. LED Taillight Development Thread This 5mm rev 2 PCB is available in 3 different configurations: 1) Brake Light: RED LEDs: Price: $90/pair 2) Turnsignal: RED LEDs: Price: $90/pair 3) Turnsignal: AMBER LEDs: Price: $90/pair Shipping: CONUS: $10 Outside CONUS: Determined at purchase. Each pair includes: 2 PCBs with 56 rearward facing 5mm LEDs each. Turnsignal configuration has 8 extra side-facing LEDs to replace the small side running light. Side LEDs will be AMBER color to match your taillight lens. Brake: Pigtail with 1157 base to plug directly into existing bulb socket. Turnsignal: Pigtail with 1156 base (turnsignal) and 5007 base (small side light) 6 clips for each pair to mount the boards to existing taillight housing for plug-n-play installation. 1 year guarantee Electrical Characteristics: Brake/Turnsignal: 0.35A @ 14V (4.9Watt) each PCB Taillight: 0.06A @ 14V (0.8Watt) each PCB Brake Configuration: RED Turnsignal Configuration: Actual Boards and clips: |
zambezi |
Jun 11 2014, 08:26 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 711 Joined: 14-April 08 From: Lafayette, LA Member No.: 8,920 Region Association: South East States |
Is there an "at home" remedy to cut the power to the turn signal LED's? I assume they are getting power from the side facing LED group. I think those being lit would be fine, but if we find the whole turn signal board being lit is a problem, is there a simple circuit we can disable to eliminate that function but still have the side LED's lit? Just asking because I installed mine today (even though the car is not yet ready for the road) and am seeing the same as everyone else. I don't have a problem with them yet but I have not used the car yet to see if it caused confusion with other drivers. I don't think any of the LEO's around these parts could care less about the legal issues of the lights, so that is not my concern.
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Spoke |
Jun 11 2014, 09:01 PM
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#3
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 7,052 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
Is there an "at home" remedy to cut the power to the turn signal LED's? I assume they are getting power from the side facing LED group. I think those being lit would be fine, but if we find the whole turn signal board being lit is a problem, is there a simple circuit we can disable to eliminate that function but still have the side LED's lit? Just asking because I installed mine today (even though the car is not yet ready for the road) and am seeing the same as everyone else. I don't have a problem with them yet but I have not used the car yet to see if it caused confusion with other drivers. I don't think any of the LEO's around these parts could care less about the legal issues of the lights, so that is not my concern. It is pretty simple to disable the amber LED array from the running lights and still have the side facing LEDs. The side facing LEDs alone should bleed very little towards the rear of the car. See the attached pic for resistor R2. Remove this resistor and the LED array is disabled from lighting with the running lights. R2 is easy to identify as it is smaller in size as the other resistors. There are 3 basic ways to remove R2: 1) Using 2 solder irons, heat both sides of the resistor and remove. If you have a single wide solder iron, it may be possible to lay the iron so it contacts both sides of the resistor at the same time to remove. 2) If you don't have a solder iron or can't get the resistor removed with a solder iron, you can simply crush the resistor with a pair of pliers. It may seem crude but it will work. The resistor is constructed on an alumina ceramic substrate which will shatter if compressed with a pair of pliers. Needlenose would work best. Just clean up the resistor fragments after breaking it and you're good to go. 3) Ship the boards back to me. You pay shipping to me and I'll pay shipping back. I will reimburse your shipping cost since this was my mistake. BTW, those with red LEDs should not suffer from this legal infraction as the red running lights will only make the light footprint of the car larger at night. Attached thumbnail(s) |
SirAndy |
Jun 12 2014, 11:19 AM
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#4
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,815 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
It is pretty simple to disable the amber LED array from the running lights and still have the side facing LEDs. The side facing LEDs alone should bleed very little towards the rear of the car. See the attached pic for resistor R2. Remove this resistor and the LED array is disabled from lighting with the running lights. R2 is easy to identify as it is smaller in size as the other resistors. There are 3 basic ways to remove R2: 1) Using 2 solder irons, heat both sides of the resistor and remove. If you have a single wide solder iron, it may be possible to lay the iron so it contacts both sides of the resistor at the same time to remove. 2) If you don't have a solder iron or can't get the resistor removed with a solder iron, you can simply crush the resistor with a pair of pliers. It may seem crude but it will work. The resistor is constructed on an alumina ceramic substrate which will shatter if compressed with a pair of pliers. Needlenose would work best. Just clean up the resistor fragments after breaking it and you're good to go. 3) Ship the boards back to me. You pay shipping to me and I'll pay shipping back. I will reimburse your shipping cost since this was my mistake. BTW, those with red LEDs should not suffer from this legal infraction as the red running lights will only make the light footprint of the car larger at night. Thanks for the tip on R2. I'll run it as-is for now, but it's good to know i can fix this if i have to ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
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