Rear Window Fix/Install Step-by-Step, get rid of rattles and leaks |
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Rear Window Fix/Install Step-by-Step, get rid of rattles and leaks |
Eric_Shea |
Aug 16 2004, 06:02 PM
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#1
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,289 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Hi Gang,
If you’ve got a rattling or leaking rear window fix it and fix it now. Leaks allow water to go straight down the firewall behind the back pad and it ends up sitting in puddles under your carpet. Ever wonder why they sell “rear half” floor pans? I just finished up installing the interior after re-installing my rear window. This procedure is fairly easy yet a bit more involved than it seems so I decided to do a Step-by-Step to help others understand what’s needed and what’s involved. Tools and Supplies Regular Phillips Screwdriver Short Phillips Screwdriver 17mm Socket and Ratchet or Open-End Wrench 10mm Socket and Ratchet (for early models with fixed seat) .024 Gauge Electric Guitar String –or-Windshield Knife 1” Putty Knife Butyl Tape (NAPA #4196) Electrical Tape Step 1: Remove Interior Pieces. You’ll need to remove the interior pieces surrounding the rear window. This would be the top roll bar pad. The side roll bar pads and the back pad. Pop the little round access covers off to get at the screws. Use the regular and short phillips to get at everything. Remember, there’s screws on the bottom of the roll bar pad as well. The 17mm socket or wrench is used to get the seat belt bolts out which hold in the side pads. If you have an early car with a stationary passengers seat, pull up the seat cushion from the rear and remove it. You should see (2) 10mm bolts toward the front of the seat. You’ll also have (4) 10mm nuts on either side of the seat bottom. Remove those and lift the seat bottom out of the car. If you have a later car you simply slide the seats forward or remove them altogether for an easier job. Now you’ll see 4 screws (2 on each side) at the bottom of the pad. You want to remove those as well. Don’t go yanking on the pad just yet, you need to remove the light (clips on the side) and disconnect the wires. You’ll also need to unscrew the engine lid release handle and unscrew the base for the handle. Now the pad should be ready for removal. Pull from the bottom and let the top of the pad slide down out of its retainers. Now is a good time to clean up any loose vinyl (ever notice that vinyl and butyl are spelled really weird?). Water and age loosens up the adhesives on the back of the pad. Clean up any old adhesive and apply 3M spray trim adhesive to re-tack the vinyl down with. Attached image(s) |
Eric_Shea |
Aug 16 2004, 06:07 PM
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#2
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,289 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Step 6: Tape the Bottom Edge of the Glass. I used electrical tape just as the factory did. Use the rubber seal on the other side of the window as a guide and run the tape from edge to edge along the bottom. I used two rows to get the desired effect.
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