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gereed75 |
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,342 Joined: 19-March 13 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 15,674 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
My front bumper top pad is pretty much a loss so thought I would try an idea for a fix that was floating around in my head. I have used this stuff on my boat and thought it had possibilities. It is super sticky adhesive, comes in black, and available at home depot maybe. If not I got this from Grainger.
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gereed75 |
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#2
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,342 Joined: 19-March 13 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 15,674 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
I gooped on a healthy glob of the 5200, making sure I filed the cavity. I am not a "put on thin layers" kinda guy. It does have a tendency to sag, so I unbolted the bumper and set it on a bench oriented in such a way That gravity held it in place.
I don't have any pictures of the smoothing process because this stuff sticks to everything and I did not want to get my cell phone. It does wipe off when wet using lacquer thinner. I used a soft flexible squeegee cut from a plastic binder cover. It will stick to that or any other squeegee I tried, so you must use a very very slow pulling action like spreading icing on a cake ---slow slow slow movement so it slowly spreads. If you go fast, you will just pull it out of the puddle. I was able to get it fairly into the desired shape and let it dry. I came back a day later and the skin was dry but the inside was still soft. I was afraid that it had skin cured and would never dry inside. I waited a week. After that it was completely cured through!!! There was virtually no shrinkage. This is what it looked like after about 5 minutes of sanding with 100 grit paper. It sands slowly. You almost have to "worry" it off, but it does sand. The durometer feels almost exactly like the original and there is no adhesion break at the joint. So far so good. Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() |
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