Rear Window Fix/Install Step-by-Step, get rid of rattles and leaks Options

[Eric_Shea]

Hi Gang,

If you’ve got a rattling or leaking rear window fix it and fix it now. Leaks allow water to go straight down the firewall behind the back pad and it ends up sitting in puddles under your carpet. Ever wonder why they sell “rear half” floor pans? I just finished up installing the interior after re-installing my rear window. This procedure is fairly easy yet a bit more involved than it seems so I decided to do a Step-by-Step to help others understand what’s needed and what’s involved.

Tools and Supplies

 Regular Phillips Screwdriver
 Short Phillips Screwdriver
 17mm Socket and Ratchet or Open-End Wrench
 10mm Socket and Ratchet (for early models with fixed seat)
 .024 Gauge Electric Guitar String –or-Windshield Knife
 1” Putty Knife
 Butyl Tape (NAPA #4196)
 Electrical Tape

Step 1: Remove Interior Pieces. You’ll need to remove the interior pieces surrounding the rear window. This would be the top roll bar pad. The side roll bar pads and the back pad. Pop the little round access covers off to get at the screws. Use the regular and short phillips to get at everything. Remember, there’s screws on the bottom of the roll bar pad as well. The 17mm socket or wrench is used to get the seat belt bolts out which hold in the side pads.

If you have an early car with a stationary passengers seat, pull up the seat cushion from the rear and remove it. You should see (2) 10mm bolts toward the front of the seat. You’ll also have (4) 10mm nuts on either side of the seat bottom. Remove those and lift the seat bottom out of the car.

If you have a later car you simply slide the seats forward or remove them altogether for an easier job.

Now you’ll see 4 screws (2 on each side) at the bottom of the pad. You want to remove those as well. Don’t go yanking on the pad just yet, you need to remove the light (clips on the side) and disconnect the wires. You’ll also need to unscrew the engine lid release handle and unscrew the base for the handle. Now the pad should be ready for removal. Pull from the bottom and let the top of the pad slide down out of its retainers.

Now is a good time to clean up any loose vinyl (ever notice that vinyl and butyl are spelled really weird?). Water and age loosens up the adhesives on the back of the pad. Clean up any old adhesive and apply 3M spray trim adhesive to re-tack the vinyl down with.

[Root_Werks]

nicely written. just did it myself this summer, but could have benefited from seeing this before i did it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

ROOT, how does one tighten the seatbelts? if you wanted to write a post on that, you would have one very interested reader right here! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)

Piece-O-Cake.

There is not a good picture on this thread, so yeah, I will do a new thread on this some time, why not? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

When you have the backpad off, you can get to both seat belt winders. Unwind them all the way until you reach the end of the belt. Hold the winder in place, it isn't very strong. Push the belt through the winder, as in back through. It might be sort of stuck in there a little, use a little screwdriver to help it if needed. You will notice a metal pin going through a loop at the very end of the belt you just pushed through. Remove it and pull the belt out of the winder. Wind up the winder being careful not too much! It will stop when you have reached the end of the spring. Normally I can get another 3-4 turns of the winder before the spring stops it. It isn't a fix for tired seat belts, but you just added more tension to them and it helps. Most of the time the seat belts almost, mind you almost go up by themselves!

Just something I do while I am in there sort of thing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)