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> Replacing oil cooler seals w/engine in
rjames
post Sep 20 2014, 09:16 PM
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Not dropping the engine to do this due to lack of space and time.

I'm following Clay's instructions which seem spot on. I got as far as far as attempting to take the 10mm nuts off the long studs that hold the cooler to the block. Each of the studs want to unscrew. This is making things much more difficult. I assume that backing the studs out to get to the seals will make replacing the seals even harder.anyone have any tips, or should I bail on this before I do something that forces me to remove the engine?

And What's the torque on these things?
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era vulgaris
post Sep 21 2014, 11:15 AM
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I had to do this when I got my car because it was dumping oil like post-McDonald's diarrhea. It can be done! With the limited space in there, the easiest thing is to use a tiny bit of permatex on the outside edge of the seals just to hold them in place long enough to slide the oil cooler back into place

It's also a lot easier to do with the oil filter removed and out of the way! I discovered that after a day of unsuccessful attempts at getting the seals into place!

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ClayPerrine
post Sep 21 2014, 01:31 PM
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QUOTE(era vulgaris @ Sep 21 2014, 12:15 PM) *

I had to do this when I got my car because it was dumping oil like post-McDonald's diarrhea. It can be done! With the limited space in there, the easiest thing is to use a tiny bit of permatex on the outside edge of the seals just to hold them in place long enough to slide the oil cooler back into place

It's also a lot easier to do with the oil filter removed and out of the way! I discovered that after a day of unsuccessful attempts at getting the seals into place!


Permatex is not a good idea on these cars. It can get in the oil passages and clog up something important. And that would ruin your whole day.

I use wheel bearing grease on the seals to hold them in place until I can push the cooler back. The grease will dissolve in the hot oil and won't hurt anything.
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