Any successful radiator in engine compartment conversions?, Or other than front trunk installs? Options

[Mueller]

I know this had been tried 7+ years ago, I was wondering if since then has anyone done a watercooled conversion and not put the radiator in the front trunk?

[veekry9]

The fan is a centrifugal pump, just like any centrifugal water pump and it's power consumption is directly related to the mass of fluid it is moving. If you throttle the fluid, it'll use less power.
Simplest solution that occurs to me is to use the flaps in the fan outlet housing tin to throttle the flow with a manual throttle cable that can be locked. Disconnect the thermostat bellows (I'm guessing that you've already done that to maximize the flow) and rig the throttle cable into the cabin somewhere handy between the seats. That way you can monitor head temp when driving on the street and not overheat by manually opening the flow when you want.
If you've got a thermostat set up in your oil cooler plumbing it'll not open 'til 180F, so oil is going to warm up just as fast as without it, but you could shortcut the plumbing there to eliminate the flow to the front cooler without having to remove it.
All that said, I'm concerned that trying to hurry up the warming process you may put stresses on the engine castings that may bring you grief......tread carefully!

Moving a lot of air for the aircooled.
Adding exchangers to cool the extra volume of oil with the associated weight.
Being able to dissipate the heat of a high compression n/a or turbo engine reliably is it.
50 % efficiency of a 200hp engine means cooling 200hp of heat.