914-4 Steering Column Bearing replacement, how I did it Options

[chuckc]

pete000 posted a question about 914-6 Steering Column Bearings here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=182165

I have a 75 1.8 that had a lot of play in the steering column when I bought it a year ago . The PO gave me both a new steering wheel bearing and the "quick fix" sleeve/bushing that could be used in lieu of replacing the bearing. I opted to replace the bearing. Also mine didn't have a Pressure Spring or a Split Ring Bushing and I didn't have one so if this is a required item please chime in.

Tools needed:
Upper Steering Shaft Bearing, 914 1.7/1.8/2.0 (1972-76) prt# 911-347-771-02-M100
philips head
28mm socket (for steering wheel retaining nut)
breaker bar
torque wrench
5.5 metric hex wrench
needle nose pliers
3000 grit sand paper
royal purple or wd-40

Parts:
go where you'd like but you'll find 'em here w/ numbers
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca..._SUSstr_pg2.htm

time:
I'm slow and had a piss poor Haynes with only general steering column disassembly instructions and it took me about 4 hours to figure out while documenting. Next time will be 1 hour.

Steps:
1). remove knee pad -- 5 or 6 phillips head screws and washers on bottom. 1 small screw w/ cap on each side facing the doors.

2). remove horn, retaining nut and spring washer , and wheel. In different places I read the retaining nut was 27, 29 and 30mm, but mine was actually 28mm. final torque spec to 34 Ft-Lbs, so I used a breaker bar to loosen mine.
(I made note of where the canceling ring on the back of the wheel lined up to the steering shaft since I was also swapping wheels but keeping the canceling ring.)


3). unplug 2 electrical plugs from bottom of column (you could do this as step 2, right after you removed the knee pad)


4). remove 5.5 mm hex screw on bottom of steering column


5). remove 4 long small screws from horn contact plate and the small circ clip on the end of the shaft. Now you can pull out the wiper and indicator switch assembly enough to let it hang to the side.


6). remove circ clip (a b!tc# ) it sits in a groove and can be rotated out w/ needle nose or small ice picks. Then you can remove the steering shaft bearing. The guide bushing on my bearing had rotted causing the play in the shaft.


7). prior to installing the new bearing I wiped free the broken bits of plastic from the old bushing and old grease and went over the shaft quickly w/ some 3000 grit sand paper to smooth it down a bit. The new bearing fits very, very snug so I also applied a small amount of royal purple.


8). I started the bearing with my hands, then gently tapped it with a hammer just enough to get it going then used a deep socket to get it on a bit more. My socket wasn't deep enough to finish the job so I used the old bearing as a shield and tapped away with the hammer. Getting the new bearing all the way in so that the circ clip could seat properly in its' groove took some work. I ended up tapping the bearing with a small punch the last half mm.


9). use some needle nose pliers to compress the cric clip and it will snap into its' groove then just reverse the steps to get everything together. When it came time to put the retaining nut back on I had my brother in law torque it to spec while I held the steering wheel straight.


If I missed anything or screwed something up please correct me.
peace,
chuck

[euro911]

This is going to happen pretty soon ... my ignition switch recently started to act up intermittently and it's hard to start (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

I believe the steering wheel need to come off to pull the switch anyway, right? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


I guess I'm hard on ignition switches ... have the same issue in my Tacoma (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)