In Over My Head Restoration, No More Excuses - Just Start Cutting... |
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In Over My Head Restoration, No More Excuses - Just Start Cutting... |
BeatNavy |
Nov 11 2014, 07:27 PM
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#1
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Certified Professional Scapegoat Group: Members Posts: 2,942 Joined: 26-February 14 From: Easton, MD Member No.: 17,042 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Ok, here goes. I picked up this '75 last April in lower Maryland. It was advertised as a 2.0, it has a 2.0 badge on the back, and it looked pretty good from a distance (or with beer goggles).
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BeatNavy |
Jan 11 2015, 02:59 PM
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#2
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Certified Professional Scapegoat Group: Members Posts: 2,942 Joined: 26-February 14 From: Easton, MD Member No.: 17,042 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Ok, I’m also taking assessment of the suspension console and the long inside that runs up to it. Here’s what I see (that I don’t like):
And, slightly closer view: Between that, and this below, I think there’s little doubt that I’m going to need to remove the suspension console and the rest of that outer section (and don't worry, that orange milk crate is not actually supporting the car): Second stupid question(s) for today (#5 overall): what’s the best way to remove that suspension console? From other people’s example I see the spot welds can be removed, but what other recommendations can you provide (e.g. measuring location, easiest way to separate, etc.)? Also, can/should this one be repaired? I saw someone had one FS the other day… TIA |
SirAndy |
Jan 11 2015, 03:16 PM
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#3
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,931 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
what other recommendations can you provide (e.g. measuring location, easiest way to separate, etc.)? I would build a jig that covers both consoles and the motor mounts. That way, you can position your replacements exactly where they need to be. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) |
scotty b |
Jan 11 2015, 04:51 PM
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#4
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
what other recommendations can you provide (e.g. measuring location, easiest way to separate, etc.)? I would build a jig that covers both consoles and the motor mounts. That way, you can position your replacements exactly where they need to be. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) 100% Also This " patch and brace " behind the heater tube is NOT factory. Someone has already been in there with a feeble attempt to keep the car in one piece. Yes there are several areas in there that are 2 and 3 layers of metal overlapping. A VERY poor design IMHO. I posted a picture here several years ago of the area just behind the jack post that was 3 layers of metal and had rusted in between each layer to the point the " metal " had stretched out to where it was close to 3/8" thick Attached image(s) |
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