Signal Single Orange 74 EG33 Swap, Gone but not forgotten |
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Signal Single Orange 74 EG33 Swap, Gone but not forgotten |
914forme |
Sep 25 2013, 07:47 PM
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#1
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Times a wastin', get wrenchin'! Group: Members Posts: 3,896 Joined: 24-July 04 From: Dayton, Ohio Member No.: 2,388 Region Association: None |
Okay this is the car in all its glory ugly as heck, but hey its an auto-x car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/new_shocked.gif) This one is from my first season of auto-x with this car.
Heres what it looks like today. Made it even uglier (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) Here is the goal, I can sketch ideas, but I can not draw at the level of others on this forum. Thank you 914 Visulizer. and my black pen. Now if I could find a good front view. And the flares are not on the car since I'm not using GT Flares. But you get the general idea. |
Dave_Darling |
Mar 7 2015, 07:42 PM
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#2
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 15,060 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
I hope you marked the "rest" position of the needle.
--DD |
914forme |
Mar 8 2015, 10:00 AM
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#3
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Times a wastin', get wrenchin'! Group: Members Posts: 3,896 Joined: 24-July 04 From: Dayton, Ohio Member No.: 2,388 Region Association: None |
I hope you marked the "rest" position of the needle. --DD Thank you Dave for bring this up, as I forgot to mention it. The easiest way to calibrate the tach again is one of three ways. If you have access to a pulse generator, generate the pulse use a calibrated instrument to measure the pulse, hook up the tach, and gently put the needle on the running tach, in the proper position. Or you can mark it and the place the needle on once you disconnected it. Just have to turn the shaft back to the marked position. lots of original faces have these tick marks on the outs side edge where quality control hooked them up to a bench unit and did this, adjust the potentiometers, and glue them closed once it was done. Modren instruments are a little more refined than that. Older instruments have the look an feel of precision. Some have the precision of a watch maker. They can be art work with in them selves. Modren stuff is a servomotor,and a few chips, resistors, and diodes. And then the newest stuff, is a server driven, via a pulse from the computer. On an engine test stand, hook it up with another tach, and well get it done. Not as accurate, but can be close enough In the car, same thing. Harder to move around, stuff in the way. Least favorite trail and error!!! You can do this with any gauge. Just have to know its input needs and its scale, done. Even mechanical driven speedos can be calibrated by a controlled source. BTW, if you don't know this about me, I have been working on gauges since I was 13 years old. First gauge restoration was on a 1967 CJ-5. After that I got into Karmann Ghias. I had a sleeper Ghia, used a 930 Tach, with 914-4 guts, and the Boost gauge as a fuel gauge. I had a 914 combo gauge Oil temp and oil pressure thank you 911 on the other side, and 914 speedo 150 MPH on the other. Even installed the trip reset function. 914-4 5.5 Inch steelies crammed in the fenders, with stock ghia hub caps, where the only external signs the car was not stock. But if you followed it through the twisties, you found out that its was no normal Ghia!!!! Stock 1600DP engine except a CB performance dry sump setup. My parents house was on a long up hill sweeper. Every morning, I knew where to turn off the engine and coast to the stop sign, where I would refire the engine. The dry sump solved that problem. I miss that car, its the car I had when I dated my wife, its the second car my father and I rebuilt, this one was a rolling restoration. Family, and work got in the way, parts got sold, body had rusted away. Not many panels being made back then, and well being in the rust belt took it's toll. After that I started doing the 904 triple gauge setups, machining the pieces was easy, laid them out in AutoCAD, sent them to a laser cutter, and bam, we had the kits. Got a local plater to do the back plates, same guy that also plated parts for the space shuttle. Silver Cadmium. Down fall was the powder coating process was still brand new, quality sucked, and then the screen printing sucked also. So I sold off what I had left to Pelican, they got the face work done, and sold the kits. I lost money on that deal. John seems to do a great job with then now. Technology has progressed to the point now that custom work is much easier. Heck if I had heard of an ALPs printer back then, I might have a different career. I now do this stuff for my cars, doubt I will reproduce these for anything but my own cars, as it is fun, for me. Lets me play, and engineer some one off stuff, and makes that car mine, all mine. And I enjoy the build more than the drive in reality. But then I tend to like to hang out with the hot rod / old school racer crowd. Matter of fact, I also did this yesterday, though the gauges in this car where not impressive. The Buggati in person was (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) Detroit Autorama - must go to event for me!!!! |
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