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> Complete 350 SBC V8 Conversion, engine, trans SOLD, SOLD
Andyrew
post Apr 27 2015, 11:04 PM
Post #1


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Group: Members
Posts: 13,377
Joined: 20-January 03
From: Riverbank, Ca
Member No.: 172
Region Association: Northern California



For sale: 350SBC V8 engine conversion, drop in from radiator, lines, engine, trani (as I wont be using it)
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...f=2&t=14097
Engine:
Heads 333882.....74-80...350/400......76cc chambers
Block 350SBC w/ .030 over 4 bolt main
Elgin "Pro Stock" Cam
These are the specs on the box.
DURN DUR. @ .050 CAM LIFT Valve Lift Lobe Centers
IN Ex IN Ex IN Ex IN Ex IN Ex
291 291 218 218 0.303 0.303 0.455 0.455 105 115

Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake
Edelbrock Proform 600 carb (ran 3 times, basically brand new)
Shorty Headers with over axle exhaust (less mufflers, keeping those)
Includes brand new ignition wires still in package
Remote oil filter mount
Latest dyno, 235rwhp 295rwtq on old failing Holley carb. Edelbrock feels much better, Probably an extra 50 more HP/TQ if not more. (NOTE: WILL NOT INCLUDE ACCESSORIES SINCE THEY ARE A REQUIREMENT OF THE CONVERSION KIT)
Complete engine: $1500

Home made radiator setup
With Griffin Radiator and extremely large fan(Lincoln Mark 8). (NOTE: RADIATOR HAS SMALL LEAK AT TOP, RADIATOR SHOP SHOULD BE ABLE TO FIX FOR LESS THAN $50)
includes all hoses and lines and brackets and shrouding(NOTE: WILL NOT INCLUDE WATER PUMP, ALSO LINES ARE OLD, GOOD FOR MOCK UP AND TESTING BUT SHOULD BE REPLACED AT SOME POINT)
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...14097&st=88
Radiator setup: $150

Conversion bits:
Renegade adapter
Kennedy Engineering VW conversion kit w/ Stage 4 clutch and very light flywheel (probably 2k miles on it)
High Torque starter (maybe 3 starts on it, basically brand new)
Water pump and alternator with appropriate brackets, appropriate harmonic balancer, ect.
Motor mount bar, trans mount adapters, ect. All the bits you need for a v8.
Conversion bits: $1000 (The 1900 renegade kit but with the high tq starter)

Trans:
Sideshift, Shifts OK, fairly certain its bad shifter bushings that cause my poor shifting. Stays in gears great, no mesh issues, syncros seem fine, No 1st gear action, no "burnouts" (Tire smoke yes, but spinning tires is much better than grippy tires... I would say I didnt overstress the trans at all it shifted the same prior to the v8)
$225


This is a drop in package. Its currently in and running in my car. The whole system has less than 5k miles on it possibly less than 3k miles. I basically started and drove it around the block every couple months and put fresh gas in it, I did one WCC in 2005 and one in 2013, then drove it 30 miles a day for a summer. That’s new clutch/pp, fresh engine rebuild, new water pump, new alternator, new starter, new carb, new wires, ect ect.

Issues:
1. Currently the Griffin radiator is leaking from the filler cap and I think the filler cap should be either fixed or plugged up and a purge valve installed there to make filling the system easy.
2. The carb needs to be tuned. I just recently installed it and haven’t put it on the dyno, but it runs pretty well, certainly enough to have some fun with, but it should be tuned a little.
3. The radiator fan is hooked up via a switch, not temperature controlled. I suggest hooking it up via a fan switch.
4. Transmission does not shift well, Its 90% likely its the linkage as the linkage is really sloppy. It could be worn internals but when it goes in gear it stays in gear. I Dont think the trans needs anything more than a freshening up. I never used 1st except loading it onto a trailer.


Package Price: SOLD

Reason for selling: Doing a modern engine/trani/wiring/interior/ecu setup from a 1.8T Audi and putting a very large turbo on it. You can see that detailed in my thread in my signature. Feel free to ask questions! Interesting parties please PM me and we can discuss this over the phone.

Thanks all!
Andrew
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Andyrew
post May 23 2015, 09:10 AM
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Spooling.... Please wait
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Group: Members
Posts: 13,377
Joined: 20-January 03
From: Riverbank, Ca
Member No.: 172
Region Association: Northern California



For the two of you that are interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2V6EerMdQs


Heres a semi cold vid. The squeeling is the alternator belt being a little tight. Oil pressure is good, As you can see the carb needs adjustment, and the slow starting is due to the distributor being not timed properly and that its a tight engine. Power is most definitely there. Starter is brand new high torque.

Picture of the driveway is just for oil leak reference. Thats after 7 years in one spot. Not more than a drop every couple months (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


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