Oil weight, Does it makes that much of a difference? |
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Oil weight, Does it makes that much of a difference? |
914itis |
Jul 2 2015, 07:35 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,892 Joined: 9-October 10 From: New York City Member No.: 12,256 Region Association: North East States |
On my six, I was using joe Gibbs 10x40, I recently switched to Kendall titanium 20x50, with added zinc
For the first time I drive the car after the oil change and my temp surged 20 degrees higher. It was not even that hot today. Is it the oil weight or the type? Correction : Kendall titanium high performance 20-50 |
Mark Henry |
Jul 4 2015, 06:24 AM
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#2
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
Maybe it's too cold up here but I've never been a fan of 20w50. Every engine I've seen using it long term had sludge issues.
Back in my type1 days I'd never run thicker than 10W30 valvoline HD Most people don't understand oils, not to mention the SAE grading system sucks donkey balls. A 10W-- oil uses 10wt oil as it base stock and a 20w-- oil uses 20wt as it base stock. To get the w30 or w50 it uses thermoelastic polymer fortifiers, which are great till heat starts breaking them down. This is main thing that causes sludge in your engine. But I don't feel like a debate (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) so that's about all I'm going to say on this.... I've ran Delo 400 15w40 for 3-4 years now, High in zinc and to me it's very close to the old Rottilla T. Not only inexpensive here $70 for a 20 liter (a liter is about a quart) pail, but is also recommended by Henry at Supertec who is a very high end /6 builder. I run it in my Fiat tractor as well so I always have lots of it on hand. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
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