944 stubs/CV's OR Type 1's for Frankenstein Setup?, Parts have arrived! |
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944 stubs/CV's OR Type 1's for Frankenstein Setup?, Parts have arrived! |
Chris H. |
Aug 21 2015, 09:40 AM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 4,048 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Chicago 'burbs Member No.: 73 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Goooood Morning,
So...my outer CV's seem to be shot. They are 914 and original 40 year olds. I popped another one last night. Tow truck ride! Yaaaay! Dang those things make a terrible noise when they come undone don't they? This is the 2nd one to pull this on me (other side last time). The last time the inner race worked its way loose. Guessing the same thing happened again. My axles are Subaru on one side, 914 on the other (sway-a-way). Options: - Get new Type 1 CV's. Looks like Tangerine and PMB carry them. One has the lip machined. Supposed to be very strong. My axles have very little angle to them. The Type 1's are being used on pretty powerful cars, so they SHOULD hold up. Mine's just ~230 hp (maybe) compared to some race cars that are far higher. - Go with 951's, which are a stronger. Spent a lot of time figuring out what's needed and I THINK I have it. Based on Aarons diagram (a tribute to Miles (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ) this is the standard setup: I'd be going half way with this. Don't need anything to the right of the axle. Questions: 1. I have re-drilled 914-4 rear hubs. Is the 951 stub (951 331 231 01) splined the same so it fits? Aaron's diagram notes a pre-'74 911 stub which I believe is the same spline count based on 20 searches (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . Other threads also mention you can use 914-6 stubs which should have the same spline count as the 4's right (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ? Pretty sure I'm right but would hate to be wrong. 2. Does anyone make the spacer that is needed or found one that works that's pre-made? I see there is an option to machine off a portion of the hub so it matches. Is that a better idea? If I can use the existing re-drilled 914-4 hub I would need the following parts: - 951 stub axle part # 951 331 235 01 - 33 spline 944 CV part # 944 331 901 00 - spacer (or machine the excess off of the hub) Cost difference is about $200 total. What do the experts think? |
Chris H. |
Aug 21 2015, 05:36 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 4,048 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Chicago 'burbs Member No.: 73 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Yeah I was thinking that just now. Haven't dissected it yet, but no one else seems to be having this issue...
Went around a corner that was about 45 degrees, speed limit was ~40 ish then out onto a country road. Around the corner I gave it some gas but nothing major. 2nd gear...wouldn't have caused tire spin or anything. Might even have it on video. I wasn't at a dead stop which like when it would happen. It always happens around a corner. Wondering if the axles are floating too much. The stock axles have a lip to prevent floating. The sway a ways have an inch of float roughly. Maybe I need a "bump stop" to restrict the floating. Or it could just be that the CV's were tired to start with but since the former powerplant was ...ahemm... a little weak... at 72 hp from the factory and the clutch was a bit worn the CVs were "good enough". I'll get the axle out and post some pics tomorrow. With the HP I have I really think I could stick with the stock CVs (or new Type 1's, whatever...). |
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