New Brakes, Another Step By Step Tutorial Options

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I took out my '76 and while driving I could tell there was some additional drag when I depressed the clutch pedal. I pulled over and felt the wheels, and found the driver's side rear was much warmer than the other three. So, after filling with E-free gas, I drove home and put her up on blocks.

I took the rear wheels off first, and found the driver's side rotor and caliper were essentially seized - I couldn't turn the rotor at all. Since the car is almost 40 years old, and in terrific condition otherwise, I placed an order with PMB Performance for a complete brake replacement.

I started by cleaning the wheel wells that had decades of dirt. Here is what the rear looked like:

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Here's what the workshop manual says about adjusting the front wheel bearings:

Watch out for correct adjustment of wheel bearing.

a. Tighten clamping nut slightly (approx. 1.5 mkp = 11 ft. lbs) while turning the wheel or hub, so that the taper rollers can rest well against the bearing races.

b. Loosen clamping nut until the nose washer can be just pushed along from the side with a screw driver and no noticeable bearing play is indicated during axial movements of the wheel hub. Caution! Do not support screw driver against hub but hold freely in hand.

c. Tighten cheesehead screw of clamping nut to specified tightening torque. Check adjustment once again by moving nose washer and without turning clamping nut, and correct, if required. Caution! The slot width of the clamping nut should be 2.5 + 0.5 mm (.1 + .02”) so that perfect clamping is obtained even under unfavorable tolerance overlaps.