Ben's 914 TURBO Official World Premier, 'cuz it didn't blowd up. |
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Ben's 914 TURBO Official World Premier, 'cuz it didn't blowd up. |
airsix |
Sep 13 2004, 01:04 AM
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#1
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I have bees in my epiglotis Group: Members Posts: 2,196 Joined: 7-February 03 From: Kennewick Man (E. WA State) Member No.: 266 |
Ok, so it isn't as cool as Chapman's 914-6 Turbo 3.0, but it's a turbo 914 all the same. Ladys and Gentlemen, at about 10:00 PST I got boost and there was much rejoicing. I took the car out, filled it with premium, tuned it with the laptop a little to make sure it got plenty of fuel under boost, and the mission was a sucess. Boost starts to come on at ~2,700rpm and is going full-steam by 3,500rpm.
I stand (ok, sit) here before you my brothers to declare that yes indeed, you can turbo a 914. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) Details: Engine: '73 1.7, stock internals EFI ECU: Perfect Power MIC3 (Cost ~$500 to get on the car and running 3 years ago) Misc EFI stuff: Subaru 1.8T injectors, Holly throttle body off a 3.0 Chrysler, BMW 5xx fuel pump, foam motorcycle aircleaner (temporary) Turbo: IHI off 1.8L Subaru (including wastegate) Misc Turbo stuff: Bosch blow-off valve (for a Saab I think). Cheap. Plastic. Works great. Total cost to add turbo: $175 (EFI was already on the car. Use Megasquirt+turbo and you can do this for <$400 easy) I tried to modify my fuel pressure regulator with a boost-reference port like the in the dune-buggy.com article but I broke off a wire guage drill bit about 1.5" deep into the bolt. Dang. Only had about a quarter-inch to go too. So I just bolted it back on the car and set the fuel pressure at the 30psi I have the ECU turned for. I tried to crank up the injector pulse width under boost to compensate, but they hit 100% duty cycle at 5,000rpm because at that point they only have 20psi effective pressure (because there's 10lb of boost by that point). So I'm keeping it under 5k rpm until I get a rising-rate pressure regulator. The wideband O2 says mixtures are just fine below that point. I estimate I'm getting 110hp (That's not a WAG. I really did the math) which doesn't sound like much but is sure better than the 80hp I had before. I would still like to add an intercooler which could put it in the neighborhood of 130hp without getting too boost-happy. Even as it is now I would say it's 100% more fun to drive. I'm really happy about it. I'll get the pressure regulator issue squared away so I can run it up to 6k and I think it'll keep me happy for quite a while. Rick said "This thread is worthless without pictures" so here's the best I could do. If you missed the earlier thread I'll throw in one of the earlier pics too. I tried to make a video but all you hear is wind noice and the blow-off valve between shifts. |
lapuwali |
Sep 20 2004, 03:22 PM
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#2
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Not another one! Group: Benefactors Posts: 4,526 Joined: 1-March 04 From: San Mateo, CA Member No.: 1,743 |
QUOTE had it running good for about 20 minutes then the damn ECU starting resetting itself causing it not to run anymore....the only thing I can think of is that it has something to do with heat...the ECU never got hot and was far away from any heat sources...I don't know, mabey once the coil gets hot it builds up resistance that could be freaking out the ECU signal If it is heat, I'm thinking it's more likely to be heat from the board itself. You say the ECU never got hot, but what about the individual components? If the processor gets too hot, it will reset. If the injector drivers are getting very hot, they may be driving up the temperature of the processor. Are you running resistor plug wires or resistor plugs? Still have the case open on the ECU? I'm in the middle of assembling my MS. Perhaps trying a different unit might help pin down your problem. Once I manage to get it completely assembled (still have to hunt down some parts that didn't show with the order), I can bring it by and we can see if it also has the same problem. |
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