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sdoolin |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 414 Joined: 1-May 14 From: LouKY Member No.: 17,299 Region Association: None ![]() |
Yep, I am building a 2056. Have ordered very nearly a complete 2056 engine kit from Type IV Store (LN Engineering). Some questions (I have searched and read MANY threads)...
I have a "spare" 1976 VW Bus short block (no cyl. heads). Assume this will work for a starting point? Issues with oil dipstick? The bus was an automatic so I assume once I remove the "flex plate" that the flywheel from by 914 engine (in car) will bolt up to the crank without issues? Any issues with engine carrier? The bus used a "moustache bar" for mounting to the frame and I am hoping that the cases from the bus/914 are the same for engine mounting? Will re-use existing Crank/rods New crank/rod bearings Will re-use existing cylinders (overbored) KB 96 mm flat topped pistons with Hastings rings Webcam cam (9130 kit from Type IV Store) Type IV Store pushrods, pushrod ends, parkerized lifters, rocker shafts Type IV Store cam bearings Re-use rockers from bus engine? Not sure about this... HAM (Len Hoffman) RS+ spec cylinder heads New Oil pump from Type IV Store New clutch & pressure plate. Re-use flywheel from 914 engine (in the car) Dellorto Dual 40mm carbs, CB Perf manifolds & linkage SSI heat exchangers & Bursch exhaust New fuel pump - will run return lines (have CFR SS Lines in car now and will re-use) Not sure what dizzy to run? I believe I need to check/verify deck height and valve clearance (I know how, just not positive this is required for a 2056 build). I have read a few threads about "setting" compression ration, but do not understand it yet? Anyone have a compression ratio for dummies guide? Anything else I'm missing? Progress so far... ![]() |
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Jesco Reient |
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 135 Joined: 18-July 12 From: Western Washington Member No.: 14,690 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
To be sure you want to make sure that before you do anything else the Bores for the crankshaft bearings are round AND in line with each other. I don't see anything that is "just fine go ahead and run it" We do a lot of line bore on Type IV cases and we are having to to clean the cylinder spigots about 0.010 to make them flat and match side to side on average. A precision straight edge will tell you what is going on with #1, #2, and #3, but you'll need a little more to see how #4 lines up. We invested a lot of time and money making better tooling.
Good luck let me know if I can be of help. John |
r_towle |
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#3
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Custom Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,705 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
To be sure you want to make sure that before you do anything else the Bores for the crankshaft bearings are round AND in line with each other. I don't see anything that is "just fine go ahead and run it" We do a lot of line bore on Type IV cases and we are having to to clean the cylinder spigots about 0.010 to make them flat and match side to side on average. A precision straight edge will tell you what is going on with #1, #2, and #3, but you'll need a little more to see how #4 lines up. We invested a lot of time and money making better tooling. Good luck let me know if I can be of help. John Could you post a link to your website? A ready to go case and crank is certainly a tempting way to start a build. |
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