Ignition System: Cranking very well but won't start 75 1.8FI, Fixed: Major concern Ignitor and #3 fuel injector. :THANKS TIM! Options

[ndfrigi]

Need help diagnose from members!

Well, last saturday Feb. 13 I joined fellow members at the Aliso Viejo Cars and Coffee which is about 30 miles one way. After the event, drove home and for less than 2.5 miles away from home at a traffic light, my tachometer is bouncing between 2.5k to 3k rpm (sorry not 3.5k to 4k rpm on what I have said on the other thread). But the actual is pretty much on normal idle of less than 1k rpm. When about to go on green light, engine died. Tried to start the engine but it is just cranking (cranking very well), but the engine won't engage.

Some good members here already mentioned about ignition circuit. Well today, I was able to checked and opened the rotor cap, and I found out that I have/had Pertronix Electronic Ignitor which I already forgot since the last time I opened it last 2011 (Since the engine is running very well after I was able to make it run after fixing it from the time I bought. I haven't open it since then. I even bought lately a spare of contact points and condenser to replace it soon).

So a friend of mine was here this morning and asked him to start the engine and try touching at the base cover of my front mounted fuel pump and I don't feel any vibration. So we tried to unplug fuel hose from the SS engine tunnel lines which is a direct supply line from fuel pump to engine bay before the fuel injector line. We did crank the engine but no fuel is spitting out from the line.

So is it fuel pump issue I have?

In addition, a member also mentioned about the fuel pump relay from the relay board. But after opening my relay board cover. I noticed there is some wiring that was changed/modified. No round relay for the fuel pump terminal.





Thanks again for your help!

[timothy_nd28]

Full of resistance? What did the meter say exactly?

We need to rectify the issue with the relay board, but it can be done at a later time. The fact that the airflow meter does engage the fuel pump is a good sign. The next step is to see if the fuel delivery is the problem with the no start condition. Either jump the fuel pump with 12vdc or at the dual relay find pin 88d and jump that terminal to the positive battery post. The wire on pin 88d should be a big black wire with red stripe.

It doesn't matter which method you choose to turn on the fuel pump. Once the fuel pump is whirling away, go ahead and start the car. Report back with the results.

Remember to reattach the pertronix module when attempting to start the car if you happened to remove it earlier like I recommended.