Ignition System: Cranking very well but won't start 75 1.8FI, Fixed: Major concern Ignitor and #3 fuel injector. :THANKS TIM! Options

[ndfrigi]

Need help diagnose from members!

Well, last saturday Feb. 13 I joined fellow members at the Aliso Viejo Cars and Coffee which is about 30 miles one way. After the event, drove home and for less than 2.5 miles away from home at a traffic light, my tachometer is bouncing between 2.5k to 3k rpm (sorry not 3.5k to 4k rpm on what I have said on the other thread). But the actual is pretty much on normal idle of less than 1k rpm. When about to go on green light, engine died. Tried to start the engine but it is just cranking (cranking very well), but the engine won't engage.

Some good members here already mentioned about ignition circuit. Well today, I was able to checked and opened the rotor cap, and I found out that I have/had Pertronix Electronic Ignitor which I already forgot since the last time I opened it last 2011 (Since the engine is running very well after I was able to make it run after fixing it from the time I bought. I haven't open it since then. I even bought lately a spare of contact points and condenser to replace it soon).

So a friend of mine was here this morning and asked him to start the engine and try touching at the base cover of my front mounted fuel pump and I don't feel any vibration. So we tried to unplug fuel hose from the SS engine tunnel lines which is a direct supply line from fuel pump to engine bay before the fuel injector line. We did crank the engine but no fuel is spitting out from the line.

So is it fuel pump issue I have?

In addition, a member also mentioned about the fuel pump relay from the relay board. But after opening my relay board cover. I noticed there is some wiring that was changed/modified. No round relay for the fuel pump terminal.





Thanks again for your help!

[ndfrigi]

Update:

Joe (Series9)

1. Unplug the fuel pump and put 12V on it manually. See if the car will start.

Report your findings.

My Reply: Instead of putting a 12v to the fuel pump, what I did is to turn the key to run position and immediately went to air intake sensor (with square plastic cover) and swing the arm and i feel the fuel is running along the fuel hoses. Meaning fuel pump is okay. Or should I still place a direct 12 volt to the fuel pump and try to start the engine again?

2. And before you go too far:

Check your fuses. If they are okay, check for 12V on the positive side of the coil with the key in the "run" position.

My Reply: All fuses under dash (only the fuse panel showing outside and didn't check anything at the rear of that fuse panel.) All fuses are okay and has resistance on both sides of the fuses.

Coil positive side has 12 volts power


Timothy_nd28

1. Start at the relay board, remove the 14 pin and 12 pin connectors. Next, use a multimeter that is set to read resistance and put one meter lead on pin one of the 14 pin connector. Put the second meter lead on pin 6 of the 12 pin connector. You should read 0 ohms.

My Reply: Unplugged the 14 pin and 12 pin connectors. #1 pin from 14 pin board with #6 pin from 12 pin board has a full resistance using multimeter. So meaning this is bad?



2. Leave the 14 and 12 pin connector connected to the relay board. Slip off the back plastic clam shells of the 14 and 12 pin connector, exposing the wires. Set the multimeter to DC, put a meter lead on pin 1 of the 14 pin connector (should be a big yellow wire) and the other meter lead on pin 6 of the 12 pin connector (should be a smaller yellow wire). Have someone start the car as you are watching the multimeter, you should observe 0 volts, anything higher than 0.1 indicates you have resistance in the circuit.

My Reply: Sorry was not able to do this since I don't have anyone can help me start the car.


Geezer914

1. Check the dual relay near the battery.

My Reply: I was able to replaced it with a used dual relay from my friends running 1.8 engine. Still engine didn't engage/run.


In addition: I also used another blue coil from the 71 car and still didn't help.
Any next step I should check?

Thank you again fellow teeners!

[timothy_nd28]

Update:


My Reply: I was able to replaced it with a used dual relay from my friends running 1.8 engine. Still engine didn't engage/run.


In addition: I also used another blue coil from the 71 car and still didn't help.
Any next step I should check?

Don't be a part changer, it only adds extra variables. This is a pretty simple system to troubleshoot, it makes it much harder to diagnose if you randomly change parts.