Just another 2056 build, Misc Questions Options

[sdoolin]

Yep, I am building a 2056. Have ordered very nearly a complete 2056 engine kit from Type IV Store (LN Engineering). Some questions (I have searched and read MANY threads)...

I have a "spare" 1976 VW Bus short block (no cyl. heads). Assume this will work for a starting point? Issues with oil dipstick? The bus was an automatic so I assume once I remove the "flex plate" that the flywheel from by 914 engine (in car) will bolt up to the crank without issues? Any issues with engine carrier? The bus used a "moustache bar" for mounting to the frame and I am hoping that the cases from the bus/914 are the same for engine mounting?

Will re-use existing Crank/rods
New crank/rod bearings
Will re-use existing cylinders (overbored)
KB 96 mm flat topped pistons with Hastings rings
Webcam cam (9130 kit from Type IV Store)
Type IV Store pushrods, pushrod ends, parkerized lifters, rocker shafts
Type IV Store cam bearings

Re-use rockers from bus engine? Not sure about this...

HAM (Len Hoffman) RS+ spec cylinder heads
New Oil pump from Type IV Store
New clutch & pressure plate.
Re-use flywheel from 914 engine (in the car)

Dellorto Dual 40mm carbs, CB Perf manifolds & linkage
SSI heat exchangers & Bursch exhaust
New fuel pump - will run return lines (have CFR SS Lines in car now and will re-use)

Not sure what dizzy to run?

I believe I need to check/verify deck height and valve clearance (I know how, just not positive this is required for a 2056 build).

I have read a few threads about "setting" compression ration, but do not understand it yet? Anyone have a compression ratio for dummies guide?

Anything else I'm missing?

Progress so far...

[sdoolin]

So the news is in...

My local guy says that these cases do NOT need align bored or decked. I imagine this is hard to believe?

[Dave_Darling]

My local guy says that these cases do NOT need align bored or decked. I imagine this is hard to believe?

Does he mean your specific case, or all Type IVs in general?

Conventional wisdom used to be that they didn't need align-boring. They are, after all, built tougher than the magnesium Type I case, which is pretty much always align-bored out of hand--because just about all of them need it. So we got used to saying, "These don't usually need it, check before you cut, OK?"

That was a couple decades ago, though. Now they've run more miles and have more heat cycles and seen more wear. More than a few do need align-boring. It is best to have the case checked.

--DD