Ignition System: Cranking very well but won't start 75 1.8FI, Fixed: Major concern Ignitor and #3 fuel injector. :THANKS TIM! Options

[ndfrigi]

Need help diagnose from members!

Well, last saturday Feb. 13 I joined fellow members at the Aliso Viejo Cars and Coffee which is about 30 miles one way. After the event, drove home and for less than 2.5 miles away from home at a traffic light, my tachometer is bouncing between 2.5k to 3k rpm (sorry not 3.5k to 4k rpm on what I have said on the other thread). But the actual is pretty much on normal idle of less than 1k rpm. When about to go on green light, engine died. Tried to start the engine but it is just cranking (cranking very well), but the engine won't engage.

Some good members here already mentioned about ignition circuit. Well today, I was able to checked and opened the rotor cap, and I found out that I have/had Pertronix Electronic Ignitor which I already forgot since the last time I opened it last 2011 (Since the engine is running very well after I was able to make it run after fixing it from the time I bought. I haven't open it since then. I even bought lately a spare of contact points and condenser to replace it soon).

So a friend of mine was here this morning and asked him to start the engine and try touching at the base cover of my front mounted fuel pump and I don't feel any vibration. So we tried to unplug fuel hose from the SS engine tunnel lines which is a direct supply line from fuel pump to engine bay before the fuel injector line. We did crank the engine but no fuel is spitting out from the line.

So is it fuel pump issue I have?

In addition, a member also mentioned about the fuel pump relay from the relay board. But after opening my relay board cover. I noticed there is some wiring that was changed/modified. No round relay for the fuel pump terminal.





Thanks again for your help!

[timothy_nd28]

You seem to be all over the map with this one. What we know so far is that the fuel pump does turn on when you jump pin 88d on the dual relay to the positive battery post. So far this is good, but what was the pressure on the fuel rail? The next step is to verify that you have spark. I'm not sure if this was done or not?

Answer these questions before we continue with any further steps. Also, don't sell yourself short, I have faith in you that we can solve this issue. As you now know, changing parts at random will usually not solve anything but cause additional problems. Many people make a false assumption that the replacement part they have in hand is actually good. If you just change parts with a replacement part with no rhyme or reason, and the replacement part you have which you assume is good but is actually faulty, you just added a whole new variable to the equation with the system. It's always better to diagnose down to component level.

[ndfrigi]

You seem to be all over the map with this one. What we know so far is that the fuel pump does turn on when you jump pin 88d on the dual relay to the positive battery post. So far this is good, but what was the pressure on the fuel rail? The next step is to verify that you have spark. I'm not sure if this was done or not?

Answer these questions before we continue with any further steps. Also, don't sell yourself short, I have faith in you that we can solve this issue. As you now know, changing parts at random will usually not solve anything but cause additional problems. Many people make a false assumption that the replacement part they have in hand is actually good. If you just change parts with a replacement part with no rhyme or reason, and the replacement part you have which you assume is good but is actually faulty, you just added a whole new variable to the equation with the system. It's always better to diagnose down to component level.

Thanks Timothy_nd28!

1. I did check the fuel pressure as mentioned on my Post #40. I'm getting 35-36 psi.
2. Spark: I checked the spark using an extra wire plug to the Negative side of the coil and with Negative of the battery while the wire plug from center of distributor cap was close to the fan shroud. And I do get a good spark coming from the coil. I forgot to mentioned, I don't get a spark from any of the spark plug wire on all cylinders. Or maybe the way I do is not right. I did try what you have suggested on one of your reply here and even using a timing light.

All original parts before my car broke down was installed back except I have to replaced spark plug wires because of some corrosion on it. The reason I did try swapping several parts one at a time is to check if my parts has some issue and base on the bowlsby tech details on what parts affects the ignition system.




http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/TechNotebook.htm

thanks again!

[ClayPerrine]

I forgot to mentioned, I don't get a spark from any of the spark plug wire on all cylinders. Or maybe the way I do is not right. I did try what you have suggested on one of your reply here and even using a timing light.

Go to FLAPS and get a spark tester. It will clip on the engine and you can hook a plug wire to it. Use it to check for spark on each cylinder when the engine is cranking. Also hook it to the coil wire and check there.

If you have no spark at all, check to see if you have 12v at the coil positive wire. Then check the points to make sure they are opening.

If you have spark at the coil wire but not at the plug wires, replace the distributor cap and rotor.

[malcolm2]

I forgot to mentioned, I don't get a spark from any of the spark plug wire on all cylinders. Or maybe the way I do is not right. I did try what you have suggested on one of your reply here and even using a timing light.

Go to FLAPS and get a spark tester. It will clip on the engine and you can hook a plug wire to it. Use it to check for spark on each cylinder when the engine is cranking. Also hook it to the coil wire and check there.

If you have no spark at all, check to see if you have 12v at the coil positive wire. Then check the points to make sure they are opening.

If you have spark at the coil wire but not at the plug wires, replace the distributor cap and rotor.

I feel like the inductive timing lite is so much easier. And it is multi-functional... you can also check your timing... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Rotor and Cap... I was thinking that too. He said he had Coil spark (center of disty) but no Spark at any spark plug.

I have an 85 water cooled VW. It died one day. It is just a fun car, so I did not work on it for months.... I was so pissed after a few weeks of checking stuff, when I took the rotor cap off and the button was in 2 pieces. It is never the simple stuff with me, so I did not check that.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)