Ignition System: Cranking very well but won't start 75 1.8FI, Fixed: Major concern Ignitor and #3 fuel injector. :THANKS TIM! Options

[ndfrigi]

Need help diagnose from members!

Well, last saturday Feb. 13 I joined fellow members at the Aliso Viejo Cars and Coffee which is about 30 miles one way. After the event, drove home and for less than 2.5 miles away from home at a traffic light, my tachometer is bouncing between 2.5k to 3k rpm (sorry not 3.5k to 4k rpm on what I have said on the other thread). But the actual is pretty much on normal idle of less than 1k rpm. When about to go on green light, engine died. Tried to start the engine but it is just cranking (cranking very well), but the engine won't engage.

Some good members here already mentioned about ignition circuit. Well today, I was able to checked and opened the rotor cap, and I found out that I have/had Pertronix Electronic Ignitor which I already forgot since the last time I opened it last 2011 (Since the engine is running very well after I was able to make it run after fixing it from the time I bought. I haven't open it since then. I even bought lately a spare of contact points and condenser to replace it soon).

So a friend of mine was here this morning and asked him to start the engine and try touching at the base cover of my front mounted fuel pump and I don't feel any vibration. So we tried to unplug fuel hose from the SS engine tunnel lines which is a direct supply line from fuel pump to engine bay before the fuel injector line. We did crank the engine but no fuel is spitting out from the line.

So is it fuel pump issue I have?

In addition, a member also mentioned about the fuel pump relay from the relay board. But after opening my relay board cover. I noticed there is some wiring that was changed/modified. No round relay for the fuel pump terminal.





Thanks again for your help!

[timothy_nd28]

I mentioned for a test procedure to remove the positive wires on the ignition coil and tape them off, but then decided to abort that test procedure. Did you put the wires back on the positive terminal on the ignition coil?

Also, some inconsistent results you are posting. You said in one post that the test light never lit, unless you touched one end of the test light to the engine shroud. In another post, you say that the light stays on continuously, but dims as you crank.

Time to redo the test one more time. All wires need to be on the ignition coil. The test light should have two wires. Connect one wire to the ignition coils positive terminal. Connect the other wire to the ignition coils negative terminal. Turn the ignition switch to on, put the car in 5th gear, and push the car slowly. You should see flashing with the light, if things are working correctly.

I think it's also time for a picture. Remove the distributor cap and rotor, take a pic and post it on here.

[ndfrigi]

I mentioned for a test procedure to remove the positive wires on the ignition coil and tape them off, but then decided to abort that test procedure. Did you put the wires back on the positive terminal on the ignition coil?

Also, some inconsistent results you are posting. You said in one post that the test light never lit, unless you touched one end of the test light to the engine shroud. In another post, you say that the light stays on continuously, but dims as you crank.

Time to redo the test one more time. All wires need to be on the ignition coil. The test light should have two wires. Connect one wire to the ignition coils positive terminal. Connect the other wire to the ignition coils negative terminal. Turn the ignition switch to on, put the car in 5th gear, and push the car slowly. You should see flashing with the light, if things are working correctly.

I think it's also time for a picture. Remove the distributor cap and rotor, take a pic and post it on here.

Looks like the ignitor is damaged maybe it is the main issue at first or maybe it broke during my several test when I turn on the ignition.

Well, Test light is not flashing when trying moved the car on 5th gear while test light is attached to positive and the other to negative side of coil. If i touched the fan shroud again instead of the negative of coil, the test light flashed.