Ignition System: Cranking very well but won't start 75 1.8FI, Fixed: Major concern Ignitor and #3 fuel injector. :THANKS TIM! Options

[ndfrigi]

Need help diagnose from members!

Well, last saturday Feb. 13 I joined fellow members at the Aliso Viejo Cars and Coffee which is about 30 miles one way. After the event, drove home and for less than 2.5 miles away from home at a traffic light, my tachometer is bouncing between 2.5k to 3k rpm (sorry not 3.5k to 4k rpm on what I have said on the other thread). But the actual is pretty much on normal idle of less than 1k rpm. When about to go on green light, engine died. Tried to start the engine but it is just cranking (cranking very well), but the engine won't engage.

Some good members here already mentioned about ignition circuit. Well today, I was able to checked and opened the rotor cap, and I found out that I have/had Pertronix Electronic Ignitor which I already forgot since the last time I opened it last 2011 (Since the engine is running very well after I was able to make it run after fixing it from the time I bought. I haven't open it since then. I even bought lately a spare of contact points and condenser to replace it soon).

So a friend of mine was here this morning and asked him to start the engine and try touching at the base cover of my front mounted fuel pump and I don't feel any vibration. So we tried to unplug fuel hose from the SS engine tunnel lines which is a direct supply line from fuel pump to engine bay before the fuel injector line. We did crank the engine but no fuel is spitting out from the line.

So is it fuel pump issue I have?

In addition, a member also mentioned about the fuel pump relay from the relay board. But after opening my relay board cover. I noticed there is some wiring that was changed/modified. No round relay for the fuel pump terminal.





Thanks again for your help!

[ClayPerrine]

Take the cap off and crank the car to see if the distributor actually spins.

If the drive is missing in the case half, it won't spin.

[ndfrigi]

Take the cap off and crank the car to see if the distributor actually spins.

If the drive is missing in the case half, it won't spin.

Yes Clay, when I installed a new points last week to adjust the gap, I was able to make the rotor turns by cranking and by moving the car shifted on a gear. Since Tim suggested to install a points for the next step being suggested, i will be able to check that again anytime today. Just wondering, since i didn't get the test light flash yesterday when ignition ON and used the test light on the positive and negative of coil, do you think something wrong with those wires attached on negative of coil? because if i touched the fan shroud from the test light, i get some grounds and make the test light flash.

[ndfrigi]

Take the cap off and crank the car to see if the distributor actually spins.

If the drive is missing in the case half, it won't spin.

Yes Clay, when I installed a new points last week to adjust the gap, I was able to make the rotor turns by cranking and by moving the car shifted on a gear. Since Tim suggested to install a points for the next step being suggested, i will be able to check that again anytime today. Just wondering, since i didn't get the test light flash yesterday when ignition ON and used the test light on the positive and negative of coil, do you think something wrong with those wires attached on negative of coil? because if i touched the fan shroud from the test light, i get some grounds and make the test light flash.

Hi Clay and Tim

I was able to install new points and condenser. Same result. Ignition ON, test light clip wire side attached to the positive of coil and the other test light wire to the negative of coil. Test light was ON all the time when cranking or on 5th gear pushing the car. Rotor rotates when pushing the car also on 5th gear.

[JOEPROPER]

Take the cap off and crank the car to see if the distributor actually spins.

If the drive is missing in the case half, it won't spin.

Yes Clay, when I installed a new points last week to adjust the gap, I was able to make the rotor turns by cranking and by moving the car shifted on a gear. Since Tim suggested to install a points for the next step being suggested, i will be able to check that again anytime today. Just wondering, since i didn't get the test light flash yesterday when ignition ON and used the test light on the positive and negative of coil, do you think something wrong with those wires attached on negative of coil? because if i touched the fan shroud from the test light, i get some grounds and make the test light flash.

Hi Clay and Tim

I was able to install new points and condenser. Same result. Ignition ON, test light clip wire side attached to the positive of coil and the other test light wire to the negative of coil. Test light was ON all the time when cranking or on 5th gear pushing the car. Rotor rotates when pushing the car also on 5th gear.

Points open and close properly? Connection at points to neg coil is good? Engine is grounded properly? Condenser is grounded? You're missing a switching ground at the neg side of the coil. Double check all connections mentioned. Double check points gap.

[ndfrigi]

Take the cap off and crank the car to see if the distributor actually spins.

If the drive is missing in the case half, it won't spin.

Yes Clay, when I installed a new points last week to adjust the gap, I was able to make the rotor turns by cranking and by moving the car shifted on a gear. Since Tim suggested to install a points for the next step being suggested, i will be able to check that again anytime today. Just wondering, since i didn't get the test light flash yesterday when ignition ON and used the test light on the positive and negative of coil, do you think something wrong with those wires attached on negative of coil? because if i touched the fan shroud from the test light, i get some grounds and make the test light flash.

Hi Clay and Tim

I was able to install new points and condenser. Same result. Ignition ON, test light clip wire side attached to the positive of coil and the other test light wire to the negative of coil. Test light was ON all the time when cranking or on 5th gear pushing the car. Rotor rotates when pushing the car also on 5th gear.

Points open and close properly? Connection at points to neg coil is good? Engine is grounded properly? Condenser is grounded? You're missing a switching ground at the neg side of the coil. Double check all connections mentioned. Double check points gap.

1. Points open on all four corner of the rotor mount with .4 gap
2. Points connection to negative of coil - good continuity
3. Engine shroud, tins and distributor body has good continuity with body grounds
4. point body to condenser to negetive coil- good continuity
5. what is that missing switching ground?

I just noticed, is there suppose to be a continuity from the negative of coil or body of points against the middle (where rotor plug) that rotates even the points is open? and even the two contacts of the points has continuity even it is wide open?

[ClayPerrine]

Where does the big yellow wire on the negative side of the coil go? It shouldn't be there.

[ndfrigi]

Where does the big yellow wire on the negative side of the coil go? It shouldn't be there.

It is more on a light brown and goes to the wiring harness along with the wires for ecu, dual relay.