Ignition System: Cranking very well but won't start 75 1.8FI, Fixed: Major concern Ignitor and #3 fuel injector. :THANKS TIM! Options

[ndfrigi]

Need help diagnose from members!

Well, last saturday Feb. 13 I joined fellow members at the Aliso Viejo Cars and Coffee which is about 30 miles one way. After the event, drove home and for less than 2.5 miles away from home at a traffic light, my tachometer is bouncing between 2.5k to 3k rpm (sorry not 3.5k to 4k rpm on what I have said on the other thread). But the actual is pretty much on normal idle of less than 1k rpm. When about to go on green light, engine died. Tried to start the engine but it is just cranking (cranking very well), but the engine won't engage.

Some good members here already mentioned about ignition circuit. Well today, I was able to checked and opened the rotor cap, and I found out that I have/had Pertronix Electronic Ignitor which I already forgot since the last time I opened it last 2011 (Since the engine is running very well after I was able to make it run after fixing it from the time I bought. I haven't open it since then. I even bought lately a spare of contact points and condenser to replace it soon).

So a friend of mine was here this morning and asked him to start the engine and try touching at the base cover of my front mounted fuel pump and I don't feel any vibration. So we tried to unplug fuel hose from the SS engine tunnel lines which is a direct supply line from fuel pump to engine bay before the fuel injector line. We did crank the engine but no fuel is spitting out from the line.

So is it fuel pump issue I have?

In addition, a member also mentioned about the fuel pump relay from the relay board. But after opening my relay board cover. I noticed there is some wiring that was changed/modified. No round relay for the fuel pump terminal.





Thanks again for your help!

[timothy_nd28]

With the voltmeter, attach one meter lead to the circled area in the picture. Take the other meter lead and connect it to the positive battery post. Set the meter for DC, and make sure the points are open, like you have it in the picture. You should have 0 volts DC,

[ndfrigi]

With the voltmeter, attach one meter lead to the circled area in the picture. Take the other meter lead and connect it to the positive battery post. Set the meter for DC, and make sure the points are open, like you have it in the picture. You should have 0 volts DC,

it has around 12 volts both Open and close at the contact point and that is ignition OFF. I did checked that circled you showed and with battery post has a continuity also.