Ignition System: Cranking very well but won't start 75 1.8FI, Fixed: Major concern Ignitor and #3 fuel injector. :THANKS TIM! Options

[ndfrigi]

Need help diagnose from members!

Well, last saturday Feb. 13 I joined fellow members at the Aliso Viejo Cars and Coffee which is about 30 miles one way. After the event, drove home and for less than 2.5 miles away from home at a traffic light, my tachometer is bouncing between 2.5k to 3k rpm (sorry not 3.5k to 4k rpm on what I have said on the other thread). But the actual is pretty much on normal idle of less than 1k rpm. When about to go on green light, engine died. Tried to start the engine but it is just cranking (cranking very well), but the engine won't engage.

Some good members here already mentioned about ignition circuit. Well today, I was able to checked and opened the rotor cap, and I found out that I have/had Pertronix Electronic Ignitor which I already forgot since the last time I opened it last 2011 (Since the engine is running very well after I was able to make it run after fixing it from the time I bought. I haven't open it since then. I even bought lately a spare of contact points and condenser to replace it soon).

So a friend of mine was here this morning and asked him to start the engine and try touching at the base cover of my front mounted fuel pump and I don't feel any vibration. So we tried to unplug fuel hose from the SS engine tunnel lines which is a direct supply line from fuel pump to engine bay before the fuel injector line. We did crank the engine but no fuel is spitting out from the line.

So is it fuel pump issue I have?

In addition, a member also mentioned about the fuel pump relay from the relay board. But after opening my relay board cover. I noticed there is some wiring that was changed/modified. No round relay for the fuel pump terminal.





Thanks again for your help!

[timothy_nd28]

Just to make sure, you have a meter lead on the positive battery post, and you have the other meter lead in the red circle of that picture, and you are measuring 12vdc (with the points open)?

You then re performed the test with the green wire pulled off the negative terminal of the ignition coil, and you still read 12volts?

Try this, same test, but remove the condenser coil, make sure it doesn't touch anything and measure again as described.

Something is shorted out, it should be a open circuit. We just need to narrow it down (almost there) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[ndfrigi]

Just to make sure, you have a meter lead on the positive battery post, and you have the other meter lead in the red circle of that picture, and you are measuring 12vdc (with the points open)? Reply: Yes Tim

You then re performed the test with the green wire pulled off the negative terminal of the ignition coil, and you still read 12volts? Reply: Yes here too

Try this, same test, but remove the condenser coil, make sure it doesn't touch anything and measure again as described. Reply: I will check on this tomorrow afternoon (sunday). And to confirm, i will unplug the condenser from the contact point then re-test again by attaching the meter lead to the contact point wire and the other meter wire to the + battery post.

Something is shorted out, it should be a open circuit. We just need to narrow it down (almost there) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Reply: Yes Tim it looks something is shorted (I believed it is just one wire is the culprit. Hope we can trace that.

Please check all replies above in BOLD letters.
To refreshed what had happened when the car died. Heading home from Cars and Coffee last February and less than 3 miles to home. At stop light, the rpm was bouncing between 2,500 and 3,000 but the actual idle is normal (not really revving around 2,500 rpm). And on green light, just about to move, the engine died. And since then, I can only get the engine crank but does not make it run even up to this point after several test and swapping parts.