Ignition System: Cranking very well but won't start 75 1.8FI, Fixed: Major concern Ignitor and #3 fuel injector. :THANKS TIM! Options

[ndfrigi]

Need help diagnose from members!

Well, last saturday Feb. 13 I joined fellow members at the Aliso Viejo Cars and Coffee which is about 30 miles one way. After the event, drove home and for less than 2.5 miles away from home at a traffic light, my tachometer is bouncing between 2.5k to 3k rpm (sorry not 3.5k to 4k rpm on what I have said on the other thread). But the actual is pretty much on normal idle of less than 1k rpm. When about to go on green light, engine died. Tried to start the engine but it is just cranking (cranking very well), but the engine won't engage.

Some good members here already mentioned about ignition circuit. Well today, I was able to checked and opened the rotor cap, and I found out that I have/had Pertronix Electronic Ignitor which I already forgot since the last time I opened it last 2011 (Since the engine is running very well after I was able to make it run after fixing it from the time I bought. I haven't open it since then. I even bought lately a spare of contact points and condenser to replace it soon).

So a friend of mine was here this morning and asked him to start the engine and try touching at the base cover of my front mounted fuel pump and I don't feel any vibration. So we tried to unplug fuel hose from the SS engine tunnel lines which is a direct supply line from fuel pump to engine bay before the fuel injector line. We did crank the engine but no fuel is spitting out from the line.

So is it fuel pump issue I have?

In addition, a member also mentioned about the fuel pump relay from the relay board. But after opening my relay board cover. I noticed there is some wiring that was changed/modified. No round relay for the fuel pump terminal.





Thanks again for your help!

[ndfrigi]

Update Sept. 19, 2016
Installed new points but idle still rough on low rpm. I was thinking maybe the condenser went bad when I was using a new points that is defective. Since I was not able to buy new condenser along with the points (Autozone does not have available condenser when I got the points), I installed a used ignitor (not the original ignitor when the car died), still same rough idle. Tim and I had a several text messages for guiding me on a step by step in checking different items.
Well, after several test run and wire test. We noticed that when we removed the fuel injector plug wires, One at a time, #1, #2 and #4 will make the idle lower and engine will die but when we removed #3 injector wire plug, there is no change in idle. So, I did replace #3 fuel injector from my borrowed FI parts (Thanks Abe and Bob for your FI parts you lend me for my swap testing of parts), and my idle is back to normal.

Moral lesson with my experienced on this Ignition issue:
1. Make sure to double check the part(s) you are using is working when replacing specific part. The new points I was using since the beginning of this thread was defective. Doing several test when in fact the initial parts replaced was not working.
2. New Timing Light: well after several test using this timing light since it was suggested that I should have one to make the test easier. Well sad, the new timing light is also defective. Good Pepboys replaced it yesterday and when I used the new timing light, I was able to verify the sparks from all spark plug wires and it makes the job easier.

Thank you again to all who shared their ideas and knowledge, especially to Tim who really spent a lot of time here and ended up using our phone to make the communication easier and faster. Sending pictures and video to Tim makes the job easier too!