Just another 2056 build, Misc Questions Options

[sdoolin]

Yep, I am building a 2056. Have ordered very nearly a complete 2056 engine kit from Type IV Store (LN Engineering). Some questions (I have searched and read MANY threads)...

I have a "spare" 1976 VW Bus short block (no cyl. heads). Assume this will work for a starting point? Issues with oil dipstick? The bus was an automatic so I assume once I remove the "flex plate" that the flywheel from by 914 engine (in car) will bolt up to the crank without issues? Any issues with engine carrier? The bus used a "moustache bar" for mounting to the frame and I am hoping that the cases from the bus/914 are the same for engine mounting?

Will re-use existing Crank/rods
New crank/rod bearings
Will re-use existing cylinders (overbored)
KB 96 mm flat topped pistons with Hastings rings
Webcam cam (9130 kit from Type IV Store)
Type IV Store pushrods, pushrod ends, parkerized lifters, rocker shafts
Type IV Store cam bearings

Re-use rockers from bus engine? Not sure about this...

HAM (Len Hoffman) RS+ spec cylinder heads
New Oil pump from Type IV Store
New clutch & pressure plate.
Re-use flywheel from 914 engine (in the car)

Dellorto Dual 40mm carbs, CB Perf manifolds & linkage
SSI heat exchangers & Bursch exhaust
New fuel pump - will run return lines (have CFR SS Lines in car now and will re-use)

Not sure what dizzy to run?

I believe I need to check/verify deck height and valve clearance (I know how, just not positive this is required for a 2056 build).

I have read a few threads about "setting" compression ration, but do not understand it yet? Anyone have a compression ratio for dummies guide?

Anything else I'm missing?

Progress so far...

[sdoolin]

OK - so I had to take a break from this for a few weeks - other life priorities got in the way. I'm still not sure what I will do about the damaged jug - but should know this week. That means I will be able to finish the long block this week and then onto valve train geometry (yes, I said that back in February also).

Still no adjustable pushrod from Type IV Store, so I need to sort that out.

Some questions...

Can I set crank thrust (end play) with the long block all bolted up or do I need to do that before I get pistons, cylinders and heads installed? Crank moves very freely for/aft before everything bolted up.

For ignition timing - I have been told by someone I trust to set initial advance at 14*, and full advance at 28*. But not sure if this is BTDC or ATDC. Does this mean I should make marks on my fan at those degrees of crank rotation (I have a degree wheel on the fan/crank) for use in timing later? I think yes, but would like other opinions.

I need a distributor. Curious about opinions on what to use and where to get.

[stugray]

OK - so I had to take a break from this for a few weeks - other life priorities got in the way. I'm still not sure what I will do about the damaged jug - but should know this week. That means I will be able to finish the long block this week and then onto valve train geometry (yes, I said that back in February also).

Still no adjustable pushrod from Type IV Store, so I need to sort that out.

Some questions...

Can I set crank thrust (end play) with the long block all bolted up or do I need to do that before I get pistons, cylinders and heads installed? Crank moves very freely for/aft before everything bolted up.

For ignition timing - I have been told by someone I trust to set initial advance at 14*, and full advance at 28*. But not sure if this is BTDC or ATDC. Does this mean I should make marks on my fan at those degrees of crank rotation (I have a degree wheel on the fan/crank) for use in timing later? I think yes, but would like other opinions.

I need a distributor. Curious about opinions on what to use and where to get.

You can set the endplay with the engine finished and just before you bolt on the FW for the last time.

Timing is usually set to 5deg BTDC 'static' before you fire up the engine for cam breakin.
You wont be able to set it properly until after breakin.

I use the mark on the FW through the access hole on the top of the tranny and a variable timing light. For me it is much easier to see than through the fan housing hole.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtPd5qzyTk8

for dizzy, I use the mallory unilite, but they have been discontinued and are hard to find.