Fuel pressure and spark but won't run Options

[Groosh]

Hi. I recently bought a '74 1.8 and am looking for help to get it running. It has the original fuel injection and ran late last year according the previous owner.

Here's what I know after reading many posts in the forum and working on it. Thanks to everybody who contributes, I couldn't have gotten this far without your help.

- The dual relay is bad I believe. After wiring it all back up, there is power from the ignition to both the start wire and run wire but no power to the fuel pump. I'm jumping the pump currently to test
- All relays in the board work
- Fuel pressure gauge shows 35psi on startup. I didn't install this gauge but seems to work ok
- Will fire with starting fluid

I'm thinking I must be pretty close and suspect the car isn't getting fuel but the gauge shows pressure?

[timothy_nd28]

We might as well check some other wires, I'm starting to doubt your wiring harness.

Key on, wire still off (and taped) the ignition coil, jumper wire still on pin 85 (dual relay) to negative battery terminal, meter set for DC volts, put one meter lead on the negative battery post. Now, make sure you still have 12vdc on pins 88a and 88b of the dual relay, if so you can continue.
Leave one meter lead on the negative battery post. Put the other meter lead on pin 14 of the ECU connector, you should get 12vdc. If so, move the meter lead from pin 14 and place it on pin 15, again you should see 12vdc. Move the meter lead from pin 15, and place it on pin 32, you should see 12vdc. Finally, move the meter lead from pin 32 and move it to pin 33, you should see 12vdc.

This tests the continuity of the wiring to the fuel injector, continuity of the injector itself, continuity of the wires leaving the injector to the resistor pack, continuity of the resistors. This is a good test, kinda checks everything.

After all that, put one meter lead on the positive battery post. With the other meter lead, probe pins: 5,16, and 17 on the ecu connector. You should have 12volts on each pin.

If all that passes, recheck pin 10 on the ecu connector for 12vdc. Pin 10 is a very important pin. This pin supplies power to the ECU, no power to this pin will keep the computer off.

[Groosh]

We might as well check some other wires, I'm starting to doubt your wiring harness.

Key on, wire still off (and taped) the ignition coil, jumper wire still on pin 85 (dual relay) to negative battery terminal, meter set for DC volts, put one meter lead on the negative battery post. Now, make sure you still have 12vdc on pins 88a and 88b of the dual relay, if so you can continue.
Leave one meter lead on the negative battery post. Put the other meter lead on pin 14 of the ECU connector, you should get 12vdc. If so, move the meter lead from pin 14 and place it on pin 15, again you should see 12vdc. Move the meter lead from pin 15, and place it on pin 32, you should see 12vdc. Finally, move the meter lead from pin 32 and move it to pin 33, you should see 12vdc.

This tests the continuity of the wiring to the fuel injector, continuity of the injector itself, continuity of the wires leaving the injector to the resistor pack, continuity of the resistors. This is a good test, kinda checks everything.

After all that, put one meter lead on the positive battery post. With the other meter lead, probe pins: 5,16, and 17 on the ecu connector. You should have 12volts on each pin.

If all that passes, recheck pin 10 on the ecu connector for 12vdc. Pin 10 is a very important pin. This pin supplies power to the ECU, no power to this pin will keep the computer off.

Shoot. I was doing it wrong before and now have myself straightened out. Here is where I'm getting 12vdc with the key "on"

- 10 pin
- 15 pin
- 32 pin
- 5, 16, 17

Not getting volts on:
- 14, 33