2.0 block ID, no SN... Options

[broomhandle]

I am about to purchase a 2.0, but the owner says there are no SN anywhere on the block. Is this possible? He says they is nothing in the common 2.0,1.8 and 1.7 SN locations...

he says there are numbers under the 2nd cyl pushrods.

004 101 102A 4022A

If no SN is there any other markings that could show its a 2.0? and... weird...

[Tom_T]

I am about to purchase a 2.0, but the owner says there are no SN anywhere on the block. Is this possible? He says they is nothing in the common 2.0,1.8 and 1.7 SN locations...

he says there are numbers under the 2nd cyl pushrods.

004 101 102A 4022A

If no SN is there any other markings that could show its a 2.0? and... weird...

I say "Horse-feathers" to your seller!

If it is a real 914 2.0 engine, then there WILL be a s/n next to the oil filler tower - anywhere else - NOT a 914 2.0 ....

& it should start ONLY with either GA, GB or GC & NOTHING else
... (except that some rebuilt ones will have the added Porsche "X" code for a manufactured engine).

http://www.914world.com/specs/engnumbs.php

You will need that code to confirm whether or not your prospective buy is a "real" 2L, using it to get to other documentation.

However, as Bill in the prior post with the link to another thread on this, that does NOT prove that it was built as a factory 2.0 - & not a conversion by a PO - only the window sticker, dealer invoice or a COA can do that.

If the seller does not have those 3 docs, then in addition to the above engine code/case no. - you'll need to get the VIN for the car & confirm it at all 4 places: stamped in top of front pass. fender & at the plate on the pass. inned headlight box side - both are inside the F trunk, at the windshield driver side A-pillar, & at the VIN sticker on the rear driver door jamb. Also get the Chassis no. from the Karmann plate on the frotn driver doorjamb & check that it matches the one stamped on the floor of the rear trunk near-ish to the real wall.

With those, look up on the Porsche website (USA/N. America), go to the Classic section & look at the page for documents & go to the Certificate of Authenticity (COA) section, then call their 800 number & tell them that your looking at buying this 914 but want to have them confirm that it's a "real 2.0" by giving them the 3 numbers. You may have to say you'll get a COA for whichever 914-2.0 you settle on.

You need to familiarize yourself with Jeff Bowlsby's website - & specifically here - the PLM - Plates/Labels/Numbers page in particular for this info above - at the links below:

http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/

http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/PLM.htm (engine nos. are way down)

If you look around on his website, you'll also find a pre-purchase checklist in pdf format, which you can print out & use to review your candidate 914s (I think it might be in the documents section).

I know - nobody on here really wants to do homework, but it's the only way to really know what you're doing & C.Y.A.! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Whenever the web host issues are worked out & it's back online, the p914.com website is yet another resource for this type of originality info, 914s in the colors, etc.

http://p914.com/

Additionally - the 914 Info link at the top of this page is another resource close at hand (where the engine numbers link above comes from).

Like reading your car's owners manual & service manuals first - be smart & try to figure it out first with the book & online resources - rather than just taking the easy way & pump a question out on the forum - because you'll be a far more knowledgeable 914 buyer & owner - & more comfortable in dealing & negotiating for your car, just with all the other stuff you'll come across in these resources.

Be a smart buyer, & do your homework, hold the line with unknowledgeable or unscrupulous sellers, & get yourself a good 914!

Happy Hunting! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Tom
///////