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forrestkhaag |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 935 Joined: 21-April 14 From: Scottsdale, Arizona Member No.: 17,273 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
I am wondering if anyone has a good spec on the ID/OD for the two brass lines running to and from the front oil cooler? See Pix from P-Base for reference / I will be using AN fittings at the working ends for my flexible connections to the cooler and the thermostat and oil tank etc.. And does anyone know generally what the oil pressure is (hot) going to the front oil cooler??
I could also makes kit-sets for other installations if anyone is interested / Once I know how the factory did the job and I can accurately replicate the same or similar quality and product..... Thanks in advance for the input. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Mark Henry |
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that's what I do! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada ![]() |
Stugray's application is for a /4, so AN-10 (5/8") would be acceptable, but the consensus is you may do a six one day, so while you are in there why not just do AN-12 (3/4").
Wet sump means there is always high pressure, even hot it should be 10 psi per 1000 rpm, on cold start-up you easily see over 100 psi. .035 wall in soft aluminum, it just has to rub in one place and you will have a hole. Also, like copper, aluminum is subject to work hardening and should be annealed after bending. With a wet sump try to limit your bends and how sharp they are to help flow. This doesn't matter as much with a dry sump scavenge circuit because it only has to keep up with the tank. Why not use steel hydraulic tubing? Catorse nothing really against the front sump, I just like my trunk and prefer stock-ish solutions to things like this in a street car. |
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