Fuel pressure and spark but won't run |
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Fuel pressure and spark but won't run |
Groosh |
Jun 5 2016, 01:24 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 50 Joined: 21-October 11 From: Dexter, MI Member No.: 13,702 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Hi. I recently bought a '74 1.8 and am looking for help to get it running. It has the original fuel injection and ran late last year according the previous owner.
Here's what I know after reading many posts in the forum and working on it. Thanks to everybody who contributes, I couldn't have gotten this far without your help. - The dual relay is bad I believe. After wiring it all back up, there is power from the ignition to both the start wire and run wire but no power to the fuel pump. I'm jumping the pump currently to test - All relays in the board work - Fuel pressure gauge shows 35psi on startup. I didn't install this gauge but seems to work ok - Will fire with starting fluid I'm thinking I must be pretty close and suspect the car isn't getting fuel but the gauge shows pressure? |
timothy_nd28 |
Oct 19 2016, 10:48 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,299 Joined: 25-September 07 From: IN Member No.: 8,154 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Car is almost ready to run. I would do one more test to verify the injectors do still work and are spraying fuel. Unclamp all injectors from the manifold, leave the fuel lines attached and electrical connectors plugged in. Find a way to put mason jars under each fuel injector. Set the ignition switch to on and temporarily open the airflow meter flap or jamb a screwdriver inside to keep the flap open.
With a wire, attach one side to the negative battery post. Take the other side of this wire and probe pins 14,15,32,33 at the ecu connector. Watch the fuel injectors as you do this. It should be a mist of fuel spraying, make sure all spray patterns look the same. Next, take your voltmeter and set it for resistance. Probe pin 13 at the ecu connector while the other lead is on the negative battery post. Finally, reassemble and prepare the car to start. Make sure you reattach the power wire back on the ignition coil and you remove the screw driver from the airflow meter. |
Groosh |
Oct 22 2016, 07:35 AM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 50 Joined: 21-October 11 From: Dexter, MI Member No.: 13,702 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Car is almost ready to run. I would do one more test to verify the injectors do still work and are spraying fuel. Unclamp all injectors from the manifold, leave the fuel lines attached and electrical connectors plugged in. Find a way to put mason jars under each fuel injector. Set the ignition switch to on and temporarily open the airflow meter flap or jamb a screwdriver inside to keep the flap open. With a wire, attach one side to the negative battery post. Take the other side of this wire and probe pins 14,15,32,33 at the ecu connector. Watch the fuel injectors as you do this. It should be a mist of fuel spraying, make sure all spray patterns look the same. Next, take your voltmeter and set it for resistance. Probe pin 13 at the ecu connector while the other lead is on the negative battery post. Finally, reassemble and prepare the car to start. Make sure you reattach the power wire back on the ignition coil and you remove the screw driver from the airflow meter. Well, I'm not seeing any fuel come out at all. I first tested this by cranking the car over with little jars under each injector. Only cylinder #2 had a little fuel mist and then it didn't do it again. I tried again by jumping the negative battery post and probing the pins and did not hear or see any sign of fuel coming from the injectors. The fuel pump was running. |
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