Engine Build Recommendadtion Options

[N_Jay]

OK, we have recently hashed out head gaskets, Pistons, rods, and bearings.
A while a go it was oil pumps.

So what about a fresh build discussion.

I plan on building a decent 2.0 based street engine.
Goals are decent power, longevity and drivability.
Think fun reliable touring with an occasional autocross. (Kind of what a factory 2.0 was good for, but with a little more kick in the pants.)
AND reasonable price (Yes, that is always open to interpretation)

What is recommended displacement? Bore and Stroke?
What pistons, rods and cylinders? What compression?
What cam?
Guessing micro squirt or tuned up D-Jet.

What "tricks" are worth while for a few HP and/or drivability, longevity, etc.
What "tricks" are not worth while (or worst yet help one direction and hurt another)

How much worse would it be to start with a 1.8 base? (Heads, etc.)

[N_Jay]

Thank so far.

More questions will be coming, but I can't be the only one with questions.

So to give you an idea of what I have current inventory.

Engine #1
73 2.0 rebuilt to original specs, but won't turn. (Was in the weather with carbs and sat a long time. (Built circa 1988)
Have all FI parts (I think)

Engine #2
2.0 case with 1.8 heads 103mm and 82,mm stroke (IIRC) (2.4?)
Lightened flywheel, clearance and balanced rods, lightened flywheel.
big valves (but no extra hand work or porting) (I think FAT did the machine work, but it could have been another Santa Ana shop. (Circa 1989/1990)
SS Heat Exchanges and circa 1988 Bursch exhaust.
Broken valve spring.

Engine #3
Supposedly good, dead stock and mostly original 74 1.8 L-Jet with all parts.

Engine #4
Supposedly good, dead stock and mostly original 75/76 2.0 D-Jet with all parts except computer.

Extra parts:
1 pair 73/74 2.0 heads, used good condition
Fresh "rebuilt" unmolested 2.0 rods (From same shop as did the 2.4 machining)

Step one is the engine I was asking about. Not sure which engine I will start with 1, 3 , or 4. (DD and tour engine)

Step two is a rebuild of the 2.4 getting some porting done and probably setting it up for MS fuel instead of carbs. ("Fun" engine to swap in when I feel like it)

[cgnj]

Thank so far.

More questions will be coming, but I can't be the only one with questions.

So to give you an idea of what I have current inventory.

Engine #1
73 2.0 rebuilt to original specs, but won't turn. (Was in the weather with carbs and sat a long time. (Built circa 1988)
Have all FI parts (I think)

Engine #2
2.0 case with 1.8 heads 103mm and 82,mm stroke (IIRC) (2.4?)
Lightened flywheel, clearance and balanced rods, lightened flywheel.
big valves (but no extra hand work or porting) (I think FAT did the machine work, but it could have been another Santa Ana shop. (Circa 1989/1990)
SS Heat Exchanges and circa 1988 Bursch exhaust.
Broken valve spring.

Engine #3
Supposedly good, dead stock and mostly original 74 1.8 L-Jet with all parts.

Engine #4
Supposedly good, dead stock and mostly original 75/76 2.0 D-Jet with all parts except computer.

Extra parts:
1 pair 73/74 2.0 heads, used good condition
Fresh "rebuilt" unmolested 2.0 rods (From same shop as did the 2.4 machining)

Step one is the engine I was asking about. Not sure which engine I will start with 1, 3 , or 4. (DD and tour engine)

Step two is a rebuild of the 2.4 getting some porting done and probably setting it up for MS fuel instead of carbs. ("Fun" engine to swap in when I feel like it)

Lots of stuff to start with. Do you have induction for the 2.4 hand grenade motor? I'd noodle that first, unless you have to source induction.

choice 2 2056 H beam rods, stock bid end, 22 mm little end. Huge difference in rotating mass. Price the cost of rebuilding stock rods, that is when it start to make sense. I have never had a flywheel lightened. I weighted stock vs H-beam rods, 24 mm wrist pins and JE forged 96 mm pistons. Saves more weight than lightening a flywheel.

There is a thread regarding rod bearing quality. I have no experience with this this, but it is something that would concern me. I still would avoid going to buick or type 1 journals because once you start looking at those changes its 20 incremental jumps to stroker 2270. Huge price differentialwhen the project is done.

Glad to spend your dime

[N_Jay]

Lots of stuff to start with. Do you have induction for the 2.4 hand grenade motor? I'd noodle that first, unless you have to source induction.

choice 2 2056 H beam rods, stock bid end, 22 mm little end. Huge difference in rotating mass. Price the cost of rebuilding stock rods, that is when it start to make sense. I have never had a flywheel lightened. I weighted stock vs H-beam rods, 24 mm wrist pins and JE forged 96 mm pistons. Saves more weight than lightening a flywheel.

There is a thread regarding rod bearing quality. I have no experience with this this, but it is something that would concern me. I still would avoid going to buick or type 1 journals because once you start looking at those changes its 20 incremental jumps to stroker 2270. Huge price differentialwhen the project is done.

Glad to spend your dime

The 2.4 was running Dellordos but they got moved to eth 2.0 when the valve problem happened. (and are now looking really sad with stiff throttles and signs of corrosion.)

The engine did not grenade as it was an exhaust valve and it did not break, just rattle on decal.

Are people really having bearing problems on non-race engines?
The 2.4 is all 2.0 bearings if I recall.