Tell me your opinion on this purchase Options

[nditiz1]

I am flying out to see this in person on Friday:

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylist...sting=173550779

What are your thoughts? Looking at $8200

[toolguy]

I'd look very carefully. . any dealer who would say "Low MIles" on this car isn't thinking clearly. . the question is = does it really have 121000 or 221000 miles or more ? also looks like everything was sprayed with water to make it shiny Why ??.
I would want to peek under the front hood seal in the lower corners and the rubber cowl to body seal as well as all the usual spots. .
The given is "914's have rust". . . .

[Tom_T]

I'd look very carefully. . any dealer who would say "Low MIles" on this car isn't thinking clearly. . the question is = does it really have 121000 or 221000 miles or more ? also looks like everything was sprayed with water to make it shiny Why ??.
I would want to peek under the front hood seal in the lower corners and the rubber cowl to body seal as well as all the usual spots. .
The given is "914's have rust". . . .

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with Dave, & will go further!

Regardless of Glenn driving it & confirming it has a 2.0 engine in it - you should call PCNA's COA dept. with the VIN & tell them that you're looking to buy it & need to confirm if it's a real factory 2L, since there are so many transplanted 1.7s out there (BTW 73 was 1.7 not 1.8 for the smaller motor). Have the dealer take a pic of the engine case number stamped next to the oil filler cap, so you can give PCNA both the VIN & case # over the phone. Hopefully they'll be helpful, especially if you say that you'll get a COA if/when you buy (good "future value insurance" for you anyway on a 2L).

Next - I get the willies when I see a dealer wit too many published untruths -

1. As Dave says - this is certainly NOT a 24K mile car, but 124-224K. miles, & wear on the gas pedal bears that out!

2. There is NO way it can be "CarFax Guaranteed" since you cannot even get a CarFax for any of the older VIN cars per-1980s sometime!

Understood that you want a DD, but there are several condition factors which cause me to wonder if there are more rust & other issues with this car -

1. Note the FG Rockers concern discussed above for rust at the longs to check (they or PO also used the wrong type for the GT Flared cars - not the flat FG rockers).

2. The bumper tops are both wavy, so they're rusted out inside - & who spends the $ to repaint the car, then slap those old things on there, when you have now 4-5 sources for nice repro bumper tops!? I mean really - somebody spent some $ for a hood badge, Euro front TS lenses, rear spoiler & reflector with remote rear trunk latch, etc., etc. - & then doesn't change the bumper rubbers!!?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

3. The car is in Chicago, so it's probably lived in salty roads rust belt states, so you really need to look closely at all lower surfaces inside & out - under carpets/pads, spares, into nooks & crannies for any signs of rust - including the hell hole & bubbles on top & around the chrome trim pieces everywhere.

4. I've seen that odd seat insert material somewhere where somebody was asking about if it were stock (it is definitely not - but was probably what the local upholstery shop had on hand whenever the seats were recovered - & a 24K mi 914 won't need the seats redone either), so someone else may have looked at the car from 914world, & you can look in the posts & maybe even contact them before you spend money to fly to Chi-town.

Everyone is saying to be cautious, cuz a cheap 914 can most easily turn into a very expensive one, if it has loads of hidden problems with rust, etc.

If you do go to look it over, then take Jeff Bowlsby's 914 Inspection Form printed out with you to go over this car with a fine tooth comb.

http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/zTN_Gen_914CAF.pdf

Also, I would put this one at no more than #4 Fair Condition in the Hagerty value chart at the link below - assuming that it does check out as a factory 2.0 & no rust issues are found:

https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools...Porsche-914-2.0

You could do some advanced research to get prices for your repair of the bumper tops, correct steel rocker covers, a Dansk 2L Banana muffler, correct seat upholstery or kits, & any other needed parts & repairs, etc. to use as bargaining chips to get them down to your $8200 for their asking price - assuming it's a real factory 2L with no major rust nor mechanical issues.

If it's a 2L transplanted into a 1.7, then it's probably way overpriced even at $8200, but you can check me by using the Hagerty link to revalue it as a 1.7.

Also, ignore their +10% for AC - it's a wash in most cases, & was never offered as "factory air" - but as either of the factory approved & dealer installed DPD or VPC ACs for 914s (also other aftermarket ones).

PS - From the pix you've added above while I was typing, it's got definite rust issues - the question is how deep - & the hell hole repair may not have done it all properly which could just be a new tray+support with POR over the rusted wall - can't tell from pix inside, but last 2 pix of jack support & underside indicate a rusted out longitudenal, & who knows what else hidden under the underbody coating! More rust is growing elsewhere too - e.g.: the pic behind the door handles is always rusting from inside up-n-out due to the factory foam inside, so it's never simple surface rust - I know, I've redone mine 3x since 1975! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) !

Hopefully you have a pic of the engine case number to call PCNA COA to verify if it's a factory 2L - otherwise, I'd keep looking if it were me on a 2L into a 1.7 car.

Good Luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Tom
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