Problem: loose stud on door handle, More problems Options

[bbrock]

Hoping to get some BTDT wisdom. I'm simply trying to remove the passenger side door handle and hit a major snag. The little M6 stud that attaches to the tab on the outer part of the handle is just spinning free so I can't get the self-locking nut off.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/cdn4.pelicanparts.com-20845-1499725820.1.JPG)

It isn't broken, it is still attached to the tab on the door handle, but loose inside. I've tried soaking the nut with PB Blaster, heating it with a propane torch, and trying to wedge a flat blade screw driver against the stud in an attempt to create more friction resisting the stud turning than needed to break the nut loose. There isn't a lot of room in there to work and I know from sad experience how easy it is to break the pot metal on these things. The only options I see now involve a drill and destroying the stud, or drilling in from the outer (tab) side to try to pin the stud enough to get the nut off. Either way, I need to make sure there is a path forward for a good repair. Even better would be the third option that you are going to tell me about (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[bbrock]

Okay, after cutting the nut loose and getting my door handle off, I've run into a few other issues.

1. I discovered a hairline crack indicated by the red arrow below. It doesn't go all the way through yet, but it is probably only a matter of time. Could I take this to a shop and have it brazed for reinforcement? Seems like that would work. Or what would solder do? I could do that myself. I'm just not sure how much reinforcement it would provide. I would love to hear opinions.



2. Just replacing the ruined stud with a nut and bolt isn't going to cut it for me. I think it would be fairly easy to drill out the stud, countersink the hole, and solder or JB Weld a flathead bolt in place. After rechroming the part, it should be fairly invisible. But before I do that, I'm looking at options to more closely replicate the original. It looks like the stud is a self-clinching threaded stud sandwiched between the tab and the small metal reinforcement that appears to either be soldered or brazed to the tab. I can't tell because it is plated over. Anyone know? If it is soldered, it should be easy to remove and solder red locktite in a new stud. But it would be nice to know before applying any heat.

3. Finally, anyone know where to find a replacement for the hinge pin that is peened on both ends? Seems like it should be a common hardware part but I'm not even sure what it would be called. Closest I've found is a "headless rivet" and those don't seem easy to source. Alternatively, I'm guessing a rivet with low profile head would do. What have other people used?

Thanks in advance for any tips and advice.

[scallyk9]

3. Finally, anyone know where to find a replacement for the hinge pin that is peened on both ends? Seems like it should be a common hardware part but I'm not even sure what it would be called. Closest I've found is a "headless rivet" and those don't seem easy to source. Alternatively, I'm guessing a rivet with low profile head would do. What have other people used?

Thanks in advance for any tips and advice.
[/quote]

I sourced that part from, dare I say it, AA about a year ago and it's in their catalog. Basically an allen bolt with a smooth shank through the assembly and only threaded at the end for a locknut which was supplied. Works great and just as smoothly as the original pin.