Epoxy Primer, For internal areas and other questions Options

[bbrock]

I needed to get some epoxy primer for sealing internal parts like the insides of suspension consoles, tunnels, etc. Eventually, I'll be spraying the car with PPG Deltron so the local paint supplier steered me to DP50LF (gray) primer and I picked up a gallon. But this stuff is really expensive (>$300 for paint and activator) so I'm wondering if there is a cheaper option that will provide as good of corrosion protection for internal parts that won't get a top coat other than cavity wax. But I don't want to sacrifice protection, so am happy to use this stuff if it is the best for this purpose. I used Eastwood's rattle can epoxy primer inside my passenger long and it worked well. But once activated, you only have 72 hours to use the whole can. I need something that can be mixed in small amounts for when I only need a little paint.

Also, I bought gray primer because I'll be spraying silver metallic. But I'll be spraying surfacer over the primer. Is there an advantage to exchanging this paint for DP40LF (gray green) to provide a little contrast for when I spray surfacer?

Finally, how much primer should I expect to use for 2 coats on a full bare metal rotisserie job inside and out?

[914forme]

Chris to me it would depend on the budget.

I have a friend here in town that restores and builds sunbeam tigers. He will mix up a batch of epoxy and spray the car, and what he has extra he will poor into all the holes on the chassis, and then stand their and spin the car on the rotisserie until the epoxy stops flowing out.

If I had deep pockets, I would dip, and then have the car EDM'd

Soda is not bad but ti is a base, you will get a reaction with it, and the epoxy, so what SPI is trying to tell us, is they don't want you to do this with out knowing exactly what is going on chemically. And they have so much faith in their paint products forming a bonded layer between the paint layers that if you don't follow proper procedures you could have the entire paint section delaminate due to lack of bonding between the metal and epoxy layer.

People love to take short cuts then blame the manufacture for their stupidity. If you soda blasted and then went to epoxy, to many different things could go wrong.

So I wonder what their instructions are? Murick acid wash, water wash.

For the Ospho and SPI here you go from the company it's self.

"The ONLY acid cleaners SPI recommends is Opsho, PPG and DuPont metal preps as long as their instructions are followed to a tee.
Use any other system you want, just do us a favor and use no SPI over them.

There can be NO shortcuts for good results.


Ospho, is a great product for automotive if used right, we give scare warnings because we want people to call so we can make sure they know how to neutralize it, so no problems will arise.
Only one way to use and here it is:

Use as needed and apply as many times as needed to get the spot clean, let dry and leave for months if you want, don’t matter.
To neutralize the Ospho MUST be wet, so if dry, re-wet with itself and let set one or two minutes and with a clean rag and water, wipe off like washing the car and then dry.
Next, then da car with 80 grit, clean with 700-1 wax and grease remover, let set an hour and coat with an epoxy."