Epoxy Primer, For internal areas and other questions Options

[bbrock]

I needed to get some epoxy primer for sealing internal parts like the insides of suspension consoles, tunnels, etc. Eventually, I'll be spraying the car with PPG Deltron so the local paint supplier steered me to DP50LF (gray) primer and I picked up a gallon. But this stuff is really expensive (>$300 for paint and activator) so I'm wondering if there is a cheaper option that will provide as good of corrosion protection for internal parts that won't get a top coat other than cavity wax. But I don't want to sacrifice protection, so am happy to use this stuff if it is the best for this purpose. I used Eastwood's rattle can epoxy primer inside my passenger long and it worked well. But once activated, you only have 72 hours to use the whole can. I need something that can be mixed in small amounts for when I only need a little paint.

Also, I bought gray primer because I'll be spraying silver metallic. But I'll be spraying surfacer over the primer. Is there an advantage to exchanging this paint for DP40LF (gray green) to provide a little contrast for when I spray surfacer?

Finally, how much primer should I expect to use for 2 coats on a full bare metal rotisserie job inside and out?

[bbrock]

Man, great info. Thanks all! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Of course I have more questions now.

1. Cary, are you shooting the whole car with SPI or just the hidden parts? At half the price of PPG, it is attractive. But I thought I needed to stay in the same paint family for anything that would be topcoated.

2. is there any difference between Ospho and Jasco? The both seem to be phosphoric acid with zinc additive (I think). I've been using Jasco only because it is what the locl Lowes carries. The directions seem the same. Should I be using actual Ospho instead, or am I good with Jasco? BTW, the DPLF data sheet says "Chemical treatment or the use of a conversion coating will enhance the adhesion and performance properties of the finished system.". I assume that would include Ospho or Jasco.

3. Recoating primer. The data sheet says it can be recoated up to a week later without cleaning, sanding, and recleaning. My plan was to shoot a coat of epoxy; then go over all of my butt welds and any stray grinding nicks with a thin layer of FG filler; then a second coat of epoxy followed by surfacer; then block etc. before basecoat. Is that second coat of epoxy not necessary? I'm happy to skip it and save time and material.

4. If it only takes a couple quarts to shoot the whole car, then I will have plenty of extra with what I already have. Maybe I should just stick with the DP40LF for everything? I don't think the internals will require much. Maybe a half quart.

Thanks again everyone for the great advice. I'm loving the rotisserie spin extra primer disposal method. The last time I painted a car was with lacquer using a high pressure siphon gun. That was a long time ago.

[cary]

Man, great info. Thanks all! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Of course I have more questions now.

1. Cary, are you shooting the whole car with SPI or just the hidden parts? Whole car, every nook and cranny.

2. is there any difference between Ospho and Jasco? Over my pay grade. But I think they're the same. Ace, OSPHO $25 gallon.

3. Recoating primer. Every area that needs to be primered will have to be sanded back. But the entire car will need to be DA'd before the painters move on to high fill primer, after they do the velvet hammer stuff.