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bbrock |
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#1
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
My Webers have the cold start circuits installed. While I'm replacing the floor pan and have easy access to the tunnel, I am thinking about adding a couple tubes to run cables from a hand throttle lever to the carbs to operate the chokes. Wondering if anyone has done this and whether it would provide superior cold starting to the traditional hand throttle. I live in the frigid north where it can freeze any day of the year, so I want the best cold start operation I can get. Thoughts?
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Mark Henry |
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#2
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that's what I do! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada ![]() |
Cold start circuit I would disable, shit design. It will stick open, not if, but when.
Get your engine built by me and then tell me you're going to use the cold start circuit I'll write "warranty VOID" across your invoice. Even from my igloo I've never had a problem starting a weber car in the winter. That said any moisture will freeze in these carbs, in the real cold I've seen floats stick open and fuel spill out the tops, etc. Also single carb's I've seen them turn into a block of ice. My Gene Berg 42 DCNF's the plungers are tapped and screwed shut right from Berg, one winter I drove it every nice (but cold -20C) day, never had a problem with starting. BTW the /6 weber warm up lever isn't a choke, it just holds the throttle open so you have fast idle till warm. |
bbrock |
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#3
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
Cold start circuit I would disable, shit design. It will stick open, not if, but when. Get your engine built by me and then tell me you're going to use the cold start circuit I'll write "warranty VOID" across your invoice. Even from my igloo I've never had a problem starting a weber car in the winter. That said any moisture will freeze in these carbs, in the real cold I've seen floats stick open and fuel spill out the tops, etc. Also single carb's I've seen them turn into a block of ice. My Gene Berg 42 DCNF's the plungers are tapped and screwed shut right from Berg, one winter I drove it every nice (but cold -20C) day, never had a problem with starting. BTW the /6 weber warm up lever isn't a choke, it just holds the throttle open so you have fast idle till warm. I've been waiting for a Canadian to chime in on this thread. This is great info all around - that I should have no problem starting even in real cold, and the cold start circuit is a POS. I'll block it off and forget about. And yeah, I had a VW bus with a single carb, and later 34ICTs that would all turn to blocks of ice. Difference was that the ICTs would stop icing up once the engine got warmed up. I did know how the handle thottle works. But I was curious about whether the CSC works better than cracking the butterflies during warmup. Sounds like I don't need either. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) |
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