Keep Dellorto DRLA 45s and Bosch 009? Options

[98101]

I suddenly find myself owning 1970 4-cylinder 2.4 with Web hot street Cam idles nicely and pulls hard at WOT. Part throttle response is not great, often with carbs coughing and even backfiring on trailing throttle. My use is mostly street, so I'd like to get this part throttle stuff sorted.

Here's pictures of the stuff that's in there now. I guess that's the infamous Bosch 009 with no vacuum advance and a PerTronix 1847A. The carbs are Dellorto DRLA 45s with short velocity stacks and these tall foam things that don't seal against the air cleaner housings. I'm willing to learn about the carbs but I don't have much confidence in the 009 for running nicely on the street. Please correct me if I'm wrong about any of this stuff.

Also from other threads I gather that switching to EFI such as MicroSquirt would cost $5K or so ... though I'm not ruling this out completely. Correct me if I'm wrong about that.






Is this kind of linkage OK?


Here's the idle you may have seen in another post:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AC53RRrXOU


Any help you can provide is appreciated!

--Michael in Seattle

[MarkV]

I always disconnect at least on carb from the linkage. You don't need 2 meters just move it from throat to throat. I set my idle at like 900....1200 is too fast. You adjust the idle screws on each carb to get the flow to match. Slow the idle on the carb that is flowing the most air. When you first start playing with them it can be frustrating but one you get the hang of it it's really pretty easy. Then set the mixture screws.

Get the timing set up where you want it before you set the carbs. If you change the timing after you adjust the carbs it will change your idle speed.

No reason to by new studs just measure them and then cut them with a hack saw. The studs are an american thread size I believe. I was able to buy a set at the local ace hardware.

If you cut them with a hack saw remove them first.