dyno run for 2366 with Web street cam and DLRA 45s Options

[98101]

I bought this car a couple months ago, and wrestling with problems that I expected, and some I didn't expect.

Dyno shop got a noticeable performance improvement by reaming out the main jets. We played with the timing curve a little bit also. Unfortunately the clutch is contaminated or something and sometimes interfered with torque readings.

Now that I've read more about 2366 longevity, I'm not sure I'd opt for it. It sounds great and pulls harder than I'm used to in a 914 though.

[Mueller]

I've used the UV leak detector kits with success before.

Not sure if I'd do engine or transmission 1st...just don't do them at the same time!

https://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-53351-B-P...ords=uv+dye+kit

[98101]

I tried to smell the stuff today and it just smelled like oil. But it's possible I don't have a discerning pallet since I'm the guy who thought Coke and Pepsi were the same drink until there was a big fuss about New Coke.

Since the transaxle needs rebuilding anyway, I guess we'll learn more about the leaks and clutch then.

Could not induce any noticeable clutch slip today. Engine idles great, and drivability problems vanished when I replaced the DRLA 45s (which still have 35 or 36 venturis I think). Air fuel mixture was correct on the dyno.

If it's not a clutch problem, what's the next most likely cause of the power less than other big fours?

[ChrisFoley]

...
If it's not a clutch problem, what's the next most likely cause of the power less than other big fours?

Camshaft and exhaust.
FC442 is a conservative camshaft for a 2366.
A 1 5/8" header is too small for a 2366.
European Racing Headers have long primaries, better for low end torque instead of top end.

BTW, 37 degree full advance is probably way too aggressive and may result in pre-ignition/high head temps.

[98101]

Camshaft and exhaust.
FC442 is a conservative camshaft for a 2366.
A 1 5/8" header is too small for a 2366.
European Racing Headers have long primaries, better for low end torque instead of top end.

OK. That makes sense. Is there any point in changing one and not the other? I'm thinking of living with the current performance until the next engine build.

BTW, 37 degree full advance is probably way too aggressive and may result in pre-ignition/high head temps.

I will back it off. I've always seen cylinder head temperature readings well below 350ºF, but it's winter here and I haven't pushed it very hard for very long.

Thank you for the expert help.