Inner Long Reinforcement, Didn't help door gap... Options

[FL000]

After many years of my car on jack stands slowly doing body work and painting it, I am finally near the end and reinstalling everything I took off. I was bummed to see that my passenger side door gap was too tight once I had the car back on it's wheels and fully loaded. Not sure if it was like that years ago when I began, or if it happened along the way.
Either way I decided to try the inner long reinforcement kit, and started with the passenger side. Had my car jacked up and stands placed appropriately to get the gap I wanted, welded it in nice and slow, got it back on the ground and under weight the gap disappeared to what it was previously (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) . I have not welded in the driver side or rear reinforcement yet, and don't really plan to in the immediate future since I don't think it will help my situation.
I want to fix my gap with the least invasive procedure. So I guess the questions are:
1) Is it possible welding in the driver side and rear reinforcement may help? Again the driver gap is perfect without it.
2) Would the outer long reinforcement kit help this situation?
3) Any other method I am overlooking that may fix this?
Appreciate your comments.

Gap on ground


Where it is rubbing


Car jacked up, stand under rear support. Doesn't look much better in this pic, but the gap is large enough to prevent the rubbing.

[r_towle]

gap, on the ground, is perfect without the inner long kit welded in?

If yes, weld slower
take a week if you must...but slower.

If the car flexes, is the outer long that you need to do, not the inner.

And, for the side you did, you can use a hydraulic tube jack and a small piece of wood to push the front hinge plate....be gentle, go slow...

Rich

[FL000]

gap, on the ground, is perfect without the inner long kit welded in?

If yes, weld slower
take a week if you must...but slower.

If the car flexes, is the outer long that you need to do, not the inner.

And, for the side you did, you can use a hydraulic tube jack and a small piece of wood to push the front hinge plate....be gentle, go slow...

Rich

Yeah driver side looks good on the ground, just passenger side has the issue. I like the idea of trying to gently bend it back into submission with a hydraulic ram, just don’t want to cause more damage in the process. I’ll give it a try and report back.

Thanks

[mepstein]

gap, on the ground, is perfect without the inner long kit welded in?

If yes, weld slower
take a week if you must...but slower.

If the car flexes, is the outer long that you need to do, not the inner.

And, for the side you did, you can use a hydraulic tube jack and a small piece of wood to push the front hinge plate....be gentle, go slow...

Rich

Yeah driver side looks good on the ground, just passenger side has the issue. I like the idea of trying to gently bend it back into submission with a hydraulic ram, just don’t want to cause more damage in the process. I’ll give it a try and report back.

Thanks

I think what Rich is suggesting will help the door adjustment but wont actually adjust/fix the long. The fact that the door gab still changes so much concerns me.