Inner Long Reinforcement, Didn't help door gap... Options

[FL000]

After many years of my car on jack stands slowly doing body work and painting it, I am finally near the end and reinstalling everything I took off. I was bummed to see that my passenger side door gap was too tight once I had the car back on it's wheels and fully loaded. Not sure if it was like that years ago when I began, or if it happened along the way.
Either way I decided to try the inner long reinforcement kit, and started with the passenger side. Had my car jacked up and stands placed appropriately to get the gap I wanted, welded it in nice and slow, got it back on the ground and under weight the gap disappeared to what it was previously (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) . I have not welded in the driver side or rear reinforcement yet, and don't really plan to in the immediate future since I don't think it will help my situation.
I want to fix my gap with the least invasive procedure. So I guess the questions are:
1) Is it possible welding in the driver side and rear reinforcement may help? Again the driver gap is perfect without it.
2) Would the outer long reinforcement kit help this situation?
3) Any other method I am overlooking that may fix this?
Appreciate your comments.

Gap on ground


Where it is rubbing


Car jacked up, stand under rear support. Doesn't look much better in this pic, but the gap is large enough to prevent the rubbing.

[dlee6204]

How bad is the rust along the outer longs? Pics?

Longs were actually really solid when I went through originally. Wish I would have caught it before paint.

Something isn't adding up. You would not get that much flex if your longs (inner or outer) were "solid". There's either rust or previous repair work done that is affecting your structure.