Inner Long Reinforcement, Didn't help door gap... Options

[FL000]

After many years of my car on jack stands slowly doing body work and painting it, I am finally near the end and reinstalling everything I took off. I was bummed to see that my passenger side door gap was too tight once I had the car back on it's wheels and fully loaded. Not sure if it was like that years ago when I began, or if it happened along the way.
Either way I decided to try the inner long reinforcement kit, and started with the passenger side. Had my car jacked up and stands placed appropriately to get the gap I wanted, welded it in nice and slow, got it back on the ground and under weight the gap disappeared to what it was previously (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) . I have not welded in the driver side or rear reinforcement yet, and don't really plan to in the immediate future since I don't think it will help my situation.
I want to fix my gap with the least invasive procedure. So I guess the questions are:
1) Is it possible welding in the driver side and rear reinforcement may help? Again the driver gap is perfect without it.
2) Would the outer long reinforcement kit help this situation?
3) Any other method I am overlooking that may fix this?
Appreciate your comments.

Gap on ground


Where it is rubbing


Car jacked up, stand under rear support. Doesn't look much better in this pic, but the gap is large enough to prevent the rubbing.

[FL000]

Ok I think I have a better handle on this now, or at least what probably caused it. I got the car in 2011, and it was obvious it had been in an accident or two. Looked cosmetic and I wasn’t overly concerned because I was going to put a Sheridan kit on it. I dug through some of the early pictures I took, and the gap issue was there the whole time. Foul on me for not realizing it and adressing it. Right rear part of car showed damage that was not repaired properly. It adds up now. I still stand behind my comment that the car is pretty solid (rust wise) but it does need to be straightened out, and probably reinforced.

I am going to try and DIY this, with a combo of porta-power ram between door jambs, front and rear suspension points chained down, and jack pushing up near rear of door and long intersection. I’ll go slow and see if I can nudge it back in shape (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif). Got to do it either way to get the gap set right?
Definitely appreciate the help with this.

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

PORTA power is not the way to do it, if the car is not rusted it will need to be pulled on a frame machine, with a measuring stick to make sure everything measures correctly. The PORTA power will just make things worse

Ok I think I have a better handle on this now, or at least what probably caused it. I got the car in 2011, and it was obvious it had been in an accident or two. Looked cosmetic and I wasn’t overly concerned because I was going to put a Sheridan kit on it. I dug through some of the early pictures I took, and the gap issue was there the whole time. Foul on me for not realizing it and adressing it. Right rear part of car showed damage that was not repaired properly. It adds up now. I still stand behind my comment that the car is pretty solid (rust wise) but it does need to be straightened out, and probably reinforced.

I am going to try and DIY this, with a combo of porta-power ram between door jambs, front and rear suspension points chained down, and jack pushing up near rear of door and long intersection. I’ll go slow and see if I can nudge it back in shape (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif). Got to do it either way to get the gap set right?
Definitely appreciate the help with this.