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Rockland914 |
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#1
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 22 Joined: 8-November 17 From: Montebello, NY Member No.: 21,586 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
Well, after a few quick spring spins I decided to take a look at what I am dealing with. The thick bondo in the rear passenger long was a concern. After 30 minutes with a cutting disc I am at a stop. I knew the best case scenario would be outer long replacement, unfortunately it is not the case. I am ready to do all the work. I bought a fantastic Lincoln mig welder with a tank, stand, the whole nine yards. Over the past 6 months I re-arranged the garage, got two dedicated 30 amp circuits in, bought all the tools, for welding and metal work, monster compressor, air tools, I have parts for a nice dolley I designed. I have braces from another board member, manuals, read all the welding and metal fabrication books from our local library. Watched all the videos, read all the forum threads, memorized Restoration Design catalog.
It is an early numbers matching 1970 that starts, stops, drives. Interior is nice, targa top is mint, dashboard is perfect, lights work. Came with original manual, passenger foot rest, original spare with what looks like the original tire. Two coats of paint. Odometer shows 27k (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Pictures below, comments are welcome. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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marksteinhilber |
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 229 Joined: 18-October 12 From: Foothill Ranch, CA 92610 Member No.: 15,057 Region Association: Southern California ![]() |
Totally doable!
Doable with engine in the car, use door braces and/or multiple point frame support and make sure you monitor door gap. That said, I did mine with jack stands on front axle, engine mount bar, and several other adjustable stands under the longitudinals and under the rear bumper. I removed no more than half the longitudinal at a time. I basically replaced the bottom half of the longitudinals, cabin side and exterior "inner" longitudinals. Putting it back factory may be important for a concours restoration, but it is only as good as the original design and manufacturer made it to sell. Your repair can actually strengthen and make it so that it will outlast an OEM repair. I hid some flatbar inside that ties the rear suspension, engine mount, and the longitudinal way forward to the seat crossmember. I also added an extra layer on the inner firewall and over the longitudinal in the cabin and on the outside using plug welds. Stiffens the car really well for track events. Remove tar from floorboards if you find rust. Your can replace sections of the floor where needed. ![]() ![]() ![]() 838] ![]() ![]() ![]() =649842] ![]() Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() ![]() |
Rockland914 |
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#3
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 22 Joined: 8-November 17 From: Montebello, NY Member No.: 21,586 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
Totally doable! Doable with engine in the car, use door braces and/or multiple point frame support and make sure you monitor door gap. That said, I did mine with jack stands on front axle, engine mount bar, and several other adjustable stands under the longitudinals and under the rear bumper. I removed no more than half the longitudinal at a time. I basically replaced the bottom half of the longitudinals, cabin side and exterior "inner" longitudinals. Putting it back factory may be important for a concours restoration, but it is only as good as the original design and manufacturer made it to sell. Your repair can actually strengthen and make it so that it will outlast an OEM repair. I hid some flatbar inside that ties the rear suspension, engine mount, and the longitudinal way forward to the seat crossmember. I also added an extra layer on the inner firewall and over the longitudinal in the cabin and on the outside using plug welds. Stiffens the car really well for track events. Remove tar from floorboards if you find rust. Your can replace sections of the floor where needed. ![]() ![]() ![]() 838] ![]() ![]() ![]() =649842] ![]() Thank you for the cool images. Not going for show car, I want to enjoy driving it. Always wanted to get into welding, I am a total DIY guy, built an addition on the house, plumbing, electrical, cycling mechanic, high end ski tuning and boot fitting - I know my way around tools. Seats and carpet going out is next, strip down the floor and evaluate. I will post some pictures when I am at that stage. Will try to do this with engine out but not sure if I can weld a new battery tray and mount while the motor is in. |
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