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Mueller |
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#1
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 17,146 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
So I was helping Sandy with his original /6 yesterday , we put new Porterfield pads on his car.
Fronts are easy, however the rear I ended up putting the stock pads back on due to a few reasons: Large diameter pins wouldn't fit into new pads, options: Grind down pins or drill/mill the backing plate for larger diameter? Easy options, just not sure which is preferred. The bigger problem was that when retracting pistons for new pads which are about 1/8" wider due to being new we started to leak a lot of fluid and I got nervous if something like a seal was being damaged while screwing out the outer allen key? So, is it okay to keep turning the screw to make room for the new pads and then once the .008" clearance is achieved just tighten the 13mm nut with no more leaks? ![]() ![]() |
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SirAndy |
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#2
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Resident German ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 41,711 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
I know nothing about stock rear brakes but i have always just pushed the pistons back by hand (or clamps if the pistons are sticky) when replacing brake pads.
Not sure why you would need to turn the adjuster if all you want is for the pistons to retract. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) PS: Do *not* grind down the original /6 pad pins! They don't make them anymore ... |
Mueller |
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#3
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 17,146 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
I know nothing about stock rear brakes but i have always just pushed the pistons back by hand (or clamps if the pistons are sticky) when replacing brake pads. Not sure why you would need to turn the adjuster if all you want is for the pistons to retract. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) PS: Do *not* grind down the original /6 pad pins! They don't make them anymore ... I was afraid of breaking something by squeezing the pistons back in. So the adjusters are just for fine tuning the gap and I can manually push the pistons back into the bores without damaging anything? I'll modify the brake pads instead of the pins! Thanks. |
SirAndy |
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#4
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Resident German ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 41,711 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
So the adjusters are just for fine tuning the gap and I can manually push the pistons back into the bores without damaging anything? Like i said, i know nothing about stock brakes ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) |
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